Showing posts with label ice climbing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ice climbing. Show all posts

Monday, February 28, 2022

Tuesday, February 15, 2022

The Railroad Cut - Ice Climbing


Checking out the ice for climbing. Photo by @nunofsantos

It was a cold morning but good for getting some laps in while there's still ice in the area. For the most part, the ice here is still holding up. But some of the routes are baked/delaminated in the areas that get sun and hard and brittle in the shaded areas.

Saturday, February 5, 2022

Purgatory Falls - Ice Climbing


Photo by @nunofsantos

Falls were flowing but we managed to find a couple of routes on the side of the Upper Falls!

Wednesday, February 2, 2022

Flume Gorge - Ice Climbing


Photo by @laurensaidelbaker

Ice climbing with some amazing women at Flume Gorge in Franconia Notch, NH!!

Sunday, January 23, 2022

Saturday, May 1, 2021

My Decade of Climbing

The Good, The Bad, The Ugly

I wanted to post this last year, but I held off until now with everything going on with Covid. May 2020 marked 10 years of climbing for me. It's not a very long time, but long enough to have some experiences I'd like to share.

The Good - It started as a bucket list. I had only heard of rock climbing after receiving mail from my local YMCA advertising climbing classes. Not knowing what to expect, I signed up for 6 private 1-hour lessons for $99. That was May 2010 and by August, my instructor had brought me to Rumney Rocks in NH where I lead some easy sport routes on the Venus Wall. After my 6-private lessons, my instructor suggested I look into joining some climbing meetup groups and try out MetroRock in Newburyport. I joined 3 climbing meetup groups, two of which were run by women. It was such a good experience climbing in the two meetup groups run by women, I have met some amazing people and have experienced so many fun and challenging climbing sessions I will never forget. But unfortunately, these two women's meetup groups closed down and it was too bad because they were ahead of their time! And after almost 8 years, I left the third climbing meetup group.

The Bad - The third meetup group was run by a guy and most of its members were men. Eventually, I came to realize that if I stayed in this meetup group, there was a good chance I wouldn't gain any leading experience like some of the other men in the group were afforded - especially after the organizer told me that I was only good enough for organizing indoor meetups. I even tried setting up climbing with him several times so I could demonstrate that I could be a safe partner, but I was always turned down. I didn't want to waste any more of my time waiting for the organizer to decide for me when I was going to lead outdoors, so I moved on and found other folks/groups to climb with. Once I moved on, I was able to lead and have been so much happier!

The Ugly - When there is drama from an insecure spouse/significant other/partner of a climbing partner, then it's splitsville for me. I never dreamed this would happen to me and was totally caught off-guard. I had never done any alpine-type ice climbing and TJ was willing to bring me up as his second. I was pretty stoked about getting out on routes I had never climbed. But apparently, his girlfriend wasn't too happy about it. My being happily married didn't matter either, it didn't prevent jealousy from his insecure girlfriend. Since insecurity can't be fixed by anyone else except for the person who is feeling it, I stopped climbing with TJ. I didn't want to have to deal with his girlfriend's drama and I wanted her creepy emails to stop. And it wasn't my job to make his girlfriend feel secure. My guess is that she probably didn't have any problems with his male climbing friends.

As I said, I haven't been climbing for very long, but over the years I've seen that climbing has evolved. I see more women and people of color out climbing. And because of this, it's been easier for me to find other climbers that I can relate to.

Through the years, I've also learned important qualities when choosing my climbing partners. Most importantly, to be a good climbing partner to my partners - and for me, that means being an attentive belayer, prioritizing safety, and being a reliable partner. I've sifted through people and many experiences to get where I now have climbing partners that I feel safe with, am comfortable with, and whose company I genuinely enjoy.

So there it is! Just a few of my experiences since I started climbing in 2010 that I wanted to share! I can't wait to see what the next 10 will bring!

Thursday, April 1, 2021

Turning 60 & Climbing About It!

It's 2019 and it's the big 6-0 this year! Yes, I turn 60 July 10th and what better way to celebrate than to climb, climb, climb throughout the entire year! My big 60 goal would be to make 60 outdoor climbing pitches by the end of 2019! All disciplines (except bouldering...weeellllll....maybe bouldering!), either on top rope or on lead. I've enlisted the help of my climbing friends and I'm also looking for more to help me on my climbing journey. Follow along on my blog or let's get out to climb!

60 Pitches and Counting!

# of Pitches - Route/Crag - Location - Type - Date
1 - Trestle Slab, Frankenstein Cliffs, Ice Climbing - 1.7.2019
2 - Moss Slab, Stonehouse Pond, Ice Climbing - 1.11.2019
4 - Moss Slab, Stonehouse Pond, Ice Climbing - 1.13.2019
2 - Moss Slab, Stonehouse Pond, Ice Climbing - 1.26.2019
4 - Leprechaun's Lement, Kinsman Notch, Ice Climbing - 2.17.2019
4 - North End Pillars, Cathedral Ledge, Ice Climbing - 2.25.2019
3 - Parking Lot Wall, Rumney, Ice Climbing - 3.2.2019
7 - Moss Slab, Stonehouse Pond, Ice Climbing - 3.3.2019
1 - North End Slab, Cathedral Ledges, Ice Climbing - 3.11.2019
5 - Lost In The Forest, Frankenstein Cliffs, Ice Climbing - 3.17.2019
2 - Parasol Gully, Dixville Notch, Ice Climbing - 4.14.2019
3 - Deer Leap, Rock Climbing, Killington, VT - 5.12.2019
2 - Ship's Prow, Rattlesnake Rocks, MA, Rock Climbing - 5.25.2019
3 - Main Cliff & Meadows, Rumney Rocks, NH - 5.27.2019
5 - Rattlesnake Rocks, MA Rock Climbing, - 6.1.2019
6 - Buffalo Corral, Rumney Rocks, NH - 6.9.2019
4 - Mt. Forist, Rock Climbing, Berlin, NH - 6.22.2019
6 - DLM Memorial - Multi-Pitch Rock Climbing, Mt. Forist, Berlin, NH - 7.4.2019
5 - Buffalo Pit & Buffalo Corral, Rumney Rocks, NH - 7.6.2019
2 - Redrocks, Gloucester, MA - 7.14.2019
4 - Parking Lot Wall, Rumney Rocks, NH - 8.3.2019
1 - Marlow, NH - 8.11.2019
2 - Farley Ledges, MA - 9.28.2019
2 - Thin Air, Cathedral Ledge, NH - 9.29.2019
3 - Ice Cream Parlor, UT - 10.26.2019
4 - Parking Lot Wall & Meadows, Rumney Rocks, NH - 11.1.2019
2 - Leprechaun's Lement, Kinsman Notch, Ice Climbing - 12.22.2019

Sunday, March 7, 2021

Chia & Waterfall - Ice Climbing


At the top of Chia

Beautiful day for ice climbing! 

This was the first time I ever ice climbed in the 'Amphitheater' so I was stoked that Nuno had his sights on Chia! At the base of  Chia (WI3+), there was already a party of two climbers who were just gearing up. We took a few photos of them and watched as Tony made his way up to the top of the climb. Nuno did a fantastic job of leading. The Amphitheater was in 'full sun' and while I was belaying Nuno up Chia, huge chunks of ice came down from the Widow's Walk/Bob's Delight area. And Pegasus was packed, including a group for a photoshoot.

Waterfall (WI3) was our second climb. No one was on it and for good reason, it was thin. But again, Nuno crushed the lead. Near the top was a mix of ice, rock, and dirt. And Nuno and I both agreed that climbing Waterfall was waaay harder than climbing Chia!

Super stellar day of ice climbing Frankenstein Cliffs with Nuno. Plus, on our way back down the trail from the top of Chia two military aircraft flew low through the notch! And I got to meet one of my blog readers (hey, Chris!) and fist-pumped another brown ice climber, woot! Enjoy some photos taken on our day.

Nuno leading Chia

Nuno leading Chia

From the top of Chia

Hiking down the trail from the top of Chia, we heard a loud rumble. Looked up and two AF C130 aircrafts came flying through the notch. Sorry for the blurry photo!

Mt. Washington summit above
the clouds. 

At the top of Chia


Monday, January 18, 2021

Sunday, March 8, 2020

LHMW Bypass Slab - Multi Pitch Ice Climbing

Nuno and I climbed the LHMW Bypass Slab at Crawford Notch. Swapped leads including the two snow pitches up to the base of The Cleft. Had originally planned to climb the LHMW (Left Hand Monkey Wrench) and The Cleft but there were a couple of parties already on both of the climbs. Sunny and breezy.....multi-pitch raps and a hike down on the trail back to tracks....great day for climbing!

Monday, December 23, 2019

Leprechaun's Lement - Ice Climbing

ice climbing, kinsman notch, leprechaun's lement,

YAAAYYY - my first day out on the ice this season - super stoked! Climbed with Jeni and Ken for some stellar fun conditions at Kinsman. 

Thank you, Jeni and Ken for your help and support for my "Turning 60 and Climbing About It" project!  With today’s climbing, I’m at  87 pitches! 

Jeni leading Leprechaun's Lement

Ken on Leprechaun's Lement

Monday, April 15, 2019

Parasol Gully, Dixville Notch - Multi Pitch Ice Climbing

Parasol Gully, Dixville Notch, ice climbing, multi pitch, hero ice,
Bringing Jackie up the 1st pitch of Parasol Gully
(me in the bright green pants)

Looking up at Parasol Gully (WI2+) from the pullout, we had no idea if the ice was good. In fact, I was actually skeptical. But Jackie said, "let's go take a walk up there and check it out." And so we did. And I'm so glad that we did. Jackie and I had been considering Parasol Gully since last October, but weather and other plans always got in the way. Today we were staring up at fat blue ice, in the shade. I can certainly understand why this route would be on the list of the top 10 ice climbs in New Hampshire. The climbing is fun, straight-forward. And the views of the notch from along the route are gorgeous! We even bumped into Nick and Isa who climbed a couple of laps on the route.

This climb was a little over 3.5 hours drive from my home in Massachusetts. So I opted to stay overnight in Colebrook. I had dinner and breakfast at the Wilderness Restaurant on Main Street. I stayed at the Colebrook Country Club Motel (not a country club) and although the rooms are very dated, the room was clean, it was very quiet at night and the staff was very friendly and helpful. 

All in all, it was a pretty damn stellar day for climbing - hero ice, plenty of sun, warm enough to belay gloveless, and no wind. Towards the end of the day, the sun gave way to clouds so in no way was the sun ever on the route. And when we left the parking, it started to drizzle. Certainly can't complain about mid-April, spring ice climbing! Thanks, Nick for the photos - it was great to finally meet you and Isa while out climbing. And thanks, Jackie for the photos and your help and support for my "Turning 60 and Climbing About It" project - at this point, I'm more than halfway to my 60-pitch climbing goal! 

Parasol Gully, Dixville Notch, ice climbing, multi pitch, hero ice

Parasol Gully, Dixville Notch, ice climbing, multi pitch, hero ice

We ended up skipping the ramp of the 1st pitch and scrambled off to the right, through the snow section and to a couple of trees to get our harness and gear on.

Parasol Gully, Dixville Notch, ice climbing, multi pitch, hero ice

From there we scrambled up to the edge of the ice and started the climb.

Parasol Gully, Dixville Notch, ice climbing, multi pitch, hero ice

Parasol Gully, Dixville Notch, ice climbing, multi pitch, hero ice

Parasol Gully, Dixville Notch, ice climbing, multi pitch, hero ice

Parasol Gully, Dixville Notch, ice climbing, multi pitch, hero ice,

Parasol Gully, Dixville Notch, ice climbing, multi pitch, hero ice

Parasol Gully, Dixville Notch, ice climbing, multi pitch, hero ice,

Parasol Gully, Dixville Notch, ice climbing, multi pitch, hero ice

On our way out we followed Nick and Isa's bootprints. Jackie took this photo of Nick and Isa on their 2nd lap up.
Parasol Gully, Dixville Notch, ice climbing, multi pitch, hero ice

....and then we did the butt slide down to the parking. The End.

Monday, March 18, 2019

Lost In The Forest, Frankenstein Cliff - Ice Climbing

Lost in the woods, frankenstein ice, crawford notch
Leading the right side of Drip In The Woods

We took a look at Willey's Slide from the road and although there was blue ice, there was a lot of snow on the left and bottom of the slide. Plus it was super windy. So Nuno and I opted to check out Frankenstein Ice. Good choice - we stuck to the sheltered Lost In the Woods area. We hiked up to the base of the ice cliffs and there were a pair just finishing up. I led the right side of Lost In The Woods (WI2) and set up a top rope anchor, and Nuno and I climbed a couple of laps. Since the left side was full of snow, we just climbed laps on the center and right sides. Then I led the right side of Drip In The Woods (WI4) and set up a top rope anchor so we could finish up on the steep curtain. Warm, lots of sun and a good day for ice climbing! Thanks, Nuno for your help and support for my "Turning 60 and Climbing About It" project - at this point, a little more than halfway to my 60-pitch climbing goal! 

Nuno on Drip In The Woods

From the top of Lost In The Forest

Lost In The Forest

Tuesday, March 12, 2019

North End Slab, Cathedral Ledge - Ice Climbing

Met up with Brandie to climb at the North End of Cathedral today. We parked at the intersection of Cathedral Ledge and Chapel roads and walked in. We got up to the base of Thresher with the intent for me to lead a quick climb. But with too much fresh snow, I bailed after placing the first piece of pro - so much work clearing the snow in order to look for a good placement. There was a guide and his group of clients at the North End Slab so we headed over. They had just finished up and was climbing at the Pillars. There was a lot of snow on the slab, but I knew there was a trail where the guide and his clients went up so I could follow. I got up about 4 feet past my first piece of pro when I realized that my right crampon had popped off. I'm all about downclimbing but when I placed my crampon-less foot in a pocket it slipped out. I looked over at Brandie and said: "I'm going to fall if I continue to downclimb." So I put in a piece of pro and had Brandie lower me so I could put my crampon back on and continue climbing. So much snow, but it was such a gorgeous day! Afterward, Brandie and I had (Poke) lunch at Delaney's Hole In the Wall. 

Thanks, Brandie for the photos and your help and support for my "Turning 60 and Climbing About It" project! ❤️ 

The top of the slab. Lots of snow and in 
some places, the snow was quite deep.

Looking up the North End Slab

North End Slab, Cathedral Ledge, NH

Poke Salad Lunch
Poke, sushi, spring rolls, japanese, north conway

Cormier Magness (5.6) - Multi pitch Rock Climb

 It was a short, but brutal hot day for us! But still glad to be able to get out and onto a couple of pitches of the Cormier Magness route o...