The Gunks – Multi pitch rock climb

Belly Roll (5.4)

120 ft, 2 pitches

Jackie and Friends

Betty (5.3)

150 ft, 2 pitches

Jackie and Friends

Twin Oaks (5.3)

190 ft, 2 pitches

The Guides Wall

This weekend was a meetup event with the Mountaineering, Climbing & Backpacking of New England Meetup group! The newly opened Shawangunks Gateway Campground opened for business just weeks before and everything was shiny and new! We pulled into camp Friday night and expected to climb both Saturday and Sunday. But Sunday was a washout so we packed up and headed out in the morning. As for climbing at the Gunks, Saturday was a fun day climbing with Geoff. A sunny, warm day with windy finishes at the tops.

Geoff and I started off with Belly Roll and that “squeeze” through the large crack was, I felt, pretty awkward as well as comical. I slipped and fell on my bad knee on the first pitch of Betty. It was a pretty hard fall on my knee, I wanted to cry but forced myself not to. I had to figure out how to get up that slick section without hurting my knee again, and eventually I did. I loved the second pitch. There was a family of 4 on this climb ahead of us. They went straight up from the belay station. Geoff chose the right side and I’m glad he did. That chimney, to the deck, to the traverse up to the face climb was so fun! Unfortunately, my knee was hurting bad at the end of Betty. So Geoff and I finished the day off on just the first pitch of Twin Oaks (~50 ft).

Enjoy some photos taken of our day at The Gunks. 

Looking up the 1st pitch of Belly Roll

Brian on Dennis route and me on Belly Roll

At the belay station of Belly Roll

Brian and Gabe on the belay station of Dennis

 Geoff at the belay station of Belly Roll

From the top of Belly Roll

Some guy (Peter) solo climbing Betty

(Geoff is already at the belay station)

Coming up P1 of Betty

Gary and Scott at the belay station of RMC

Gary and I at the belay station

Geoff at the belay station of Betty

That fun chimney to start off P2 of Betty

P1 of Twin Oaks

Rappelling

At the Shawangunks Gateway Campground

Footpath along our tent sites

Community Campfire

Main Office

Water isn't free

Coyote, Blues & Tardis – Multi pitch rock climb

Coyote Rain (5.6)

140 ft, 2 pitches

Wonderland Wall

Evening Blues (5.7)

135 ft, 2 pitches

Wonderland Wall

Tardis (5.7)

65 ft, 1 pitch

Indigenous Wall

More training for Colorado climbing! Jeff, Kevin and I spent the day climbing at Longstack Precipice. It took us a bit to find the trail, so we ended up following the dirt road until it ended. Then bushwacked our way up to the base of the Wonderland Wall. And on our way out, we took the climber’s path which took us to the logging road and back to the open area where we parked. But next time going to follow these directions:

At 1.5 miles of Rines Road in Alton, drive through the first gate and sign for the Knight’s Pond Conservation Area. Go to the very end and park in the parking lot with a kiosk. Large boulders border the parking lot. Between two boulders is a shortcut path. Take path to the intersection of the dirt, logging road. Follow for a few minutes and on your left a “climbers path” is marked with a cairn (there may be some overgrowth near the start of this path). Follow this well-worn path to the base of the Indigenous Wall.

Overall, it was an amazing day of climbing! Besides us, there was another pair of climbers and that’s it!!! After that other pair left, we had Longstack Precipice all to ourselves!  Well, not all to ourselves….there were a couple of giant Ravens who didn’t appreciate our company. Whenever they felt we were too close, they let out a loud series of squaks. And the mosquitoes, too many, oi!! The day started off cloudy and muggy. By mid day there were a few minutes of enjoyable cool temps and light breezes. But towards the end of the day it was muggy again, but with plenty of sunshine. Enjoy some photos taken of our day climbing in New Durham, NH!

Longstack from the approach

Jeff and Kevin

Kevin did an impressive job of leading Coyote Rain

Fun roof of Coyote Rain 

Up and over, piece of cake!

View from the top of Coyote Rain

At the base of Evening Blues

View from the top of Evening Blues

Kevin leading Tardis

Jeff on the bulge of Tardis

On the run-out slab to finish (3)

Mt. Major - Spring Hike

Mt. Major (1,786ft)
Trails: Mt. Major main
Elevation Gain: 1,100ft
Distance: 3.4 miles
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate

Great to get out hiking with Tim B. again. Enjoy a few photos taken of this little fun cardio workout!








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Wavelength – Multi-pitch Rock Climbing

Wavelength (5.8)

1,080 feet, 10 pitches

Whitehorse Ledge

North Conway, NH

May 2^nd brought a fabulous day for a first multi-pitch rock climb of the season!

Counting the ‘walk-up’ to the Launch Pad, Sean, Tom and I did 10 pitches today of The Slabs, Center of Whitehorse Ledge. We had blue skies the entire day, climbed the 5.8 pitch listening to Presidential candidate Bernie Sanders’ outdoor convention speech and met a “totally blind” climber on his very first multi-pitch climb.

Our climbing plan; start on the Standard Route’s direct route (Quartz pocket) and if it was dry, onto Wavelength, linking up with the Sliding Board and finishing up on the Standard Route. Sean would lead and Tom and I would second several of the pitches together. 

Enjoy photos taken of our climb!

White Mountain Hotel & Resort with Whitehorse Ledge in the backgound

A little bit of snow at the base of the ledge

Sean leading up to "The Toilet Bowl"

Me on Sean's belay at the "Launch Pad"

Tom and I making our way up from the Launch Pad to the Toilet Bowl

A Piton at the "Quartz Pocket"

Tom finishing up the 4th pitch to the thread

anchor in the main arch. Sean on his belay.

Sean leading the 5.8 pitch!

Tricky pocket section! Great moves for a tall climber, as Sean demonstrates! My short-climber beta; right foot on base. Right hand on small nub. Left hand in lower pocket. All in one move: Step up with left foot to meet left hand in lower pocket. As you push off with right hand and step up onto left foot, bump left hand up to higher, bigger pocket. Match hands and bump right foot up to higher nub. Step up to a bolt.

Happy belayer!

Tom's turn on the 5.8!

Making his way up the face of the brown bulge.

Past the crux and on the dike to the anchor of the 5.8

You damn right I'm happy to be climbing Wavelength!

Making my way up to the anchor just

below the steep headwall of The Sliding Board

Tom's turn to make his way up to the anchor!

Protection along the steep dike through the headwall of The Sliding Board.

Removing pro

Final pitch

Also topping out - safe and sound (left to right) Copp, Tom & Paul

These guys went off route a bit and Sean let them know.

They made the route tougher than it really was and it was

pretty scary watching their lead climber taking a couple of falls.

George Hurley, who was at the base, yelled up

directions to where they were supposed to be. 

Our belay and anchor stations along the route (yellow stars)

Photo: North Conway Rock Climbs Guidebook