Posts

Showing posts from March, 2015

Drone Camera - Standard Route - Multi pitch Ice Climbing

Image
Standard Route  (WI3+) Frankenstein Cliffs Crawford Notch, NH
All last winter I had been asking him to go out ice climbing and he kept declining. So when I got Jeff B ’s email last week about ice climbing, I thought it was a joke and had to I read it several times. Jeff’s son Todd is a professional photographer/videographer and he needed some ice climbing shots/vids via GoPro Drone. http://toddjburgess.com/
I contacted Jeff S. and made sure to check the weather - Sunday was the better of the two. Originally I had chosen Cinema Gully but was told that it would be too thin. So when Frankenstein Cliffs was suggested, I choose the Standard Route because of its short approach and exposure. And I thought Todd should have no problems piloting his Drone for shots. Plus, it was “still in.” But I chose Standard Route mainly because it’s a very recognizable route at the cliffs. So Jeff S. lead both Jeff B. and I up the Standard Route. We had a perfectly beautiful day for ice climbing. The sun was ou…

Monkey Wrench & Upper Hitchcock - Spring Ice Climbing

Image
At the base of Upper Hitchcock with Crawford Notch in the background
Left Hand Monkey Wrench (WI3) Upper Hitchcock (WI3-) Mount Willard Crawford Notch, NH
Forecasts called for cloudy skies and some snow. But all that gave way to blue skies and sunshine by the time Jeff S. and I reached the base of the Hitchcock Gully. We pretty much broke trail up Lower Hitchcock, traversing right to Left Hand Monkey Wrench, then onto the base of Upper Hitchcock. It was slow going but we took our time anyways since there were only two other teams in the area climbing.
At the base of Upper Hitchcock





It was my very first time on Upper Hitchcock and it was a lot of fun, except when my calves cramped up. Attributed to, according to Jeff, dehydration and probably due to my just getting over a cold. I have had my calves ‘pumpy’ before but not so much that they cramped up. Had to have Jeff ‘take’ so I could rest.
Left: Looking down Upper Hitchcock from the Rap Station









Jeff and I at the Rap Station above Upper Hitchco…

Cinema Gully, East Face Slabs & The Cleft – Multi-pitch Ice Climbing

Image
Cinema Gully (WI2) East Face Slabs Left (WI3) The Cleft (WI2+)
Mount Willard

Crawford Notch, NH I love when Jeff S. takes me ice climbing with him - I get to do some freaking fun climbing on a little alpine playground! Mount Willard is home to some awesome ice and alpine routes. Today I had the opportunity to climb two more of those routes and then finish off on The Cleft.
Cinema Gully(WI2) It was cool to see a bolt at the belay station of the 1st pitch. Jeff asked if I wanted to set a belay station there orwalk up a bit to a thin sheet of ice. Since it would mean one-and-a-half roped pitches, I choose the latter andJeff and I walked up to the next belay station where the ice was full of screw holes. It was a gorgeous day…see the sun and blue skies in our photos! :)  After topping off we ascended a bit more to sit and eat our lunches and then traversed over towards the Upper Hitchcock route.
Looking up at Cinema Gully from the train tracks
Jeff and I at the 2nd belay station
Looking up at our l…

My First Ice Lead – Ice Climbing

Image
Willey’s Slide Center (WI2) Mt. Willey Crawford Notch, NH
Super stoked! Did my first lead on ice today! The second pitch of Willey's Slide (center) with Geoff N. Didn't go too far....about 40 meters to set up an anchor on the face of a fat bulge. Placed two pieces of pro (very snowy pitch).
The approach (steep uphill) wasn’t what I was looking forward to. But once at the base of the climb, it was all but forgotten. The Slide looked different. When Sean and I were here this past January, there were hardly an rolling bulges. It was a different story today. There were rolls and rolls of ice, most of it on the left side. Geoff decided on the center of the Slide.


There was a group of 3 in front of us and Geoff and I quickly set up to come up about 20 feet to the right of them. In the meantime, a group of half dozen showed up, plus two more teams which set up on either side of us. The entire climb went on without a hitch. It was a bit chilly and few periods of sunshine, but hardly any wi…