Showing posts with label #Turning60andClimbingAboutIt. Show all posts
Showing posts with label #Turning60andClimbingAboutIt. Show all posts

Thursday, April 1, 2021

Turning 60 & Climbing About It!



It's 2019 and it's the big 6-0 this year! Yes, I turn 60 July 10th and what better way to celebrate than to climb, climb, climb throughout the entire year! My big 60 goal would be to make 60 outdoor climbing pitches by the end of 2019! All disciplines (except bouldering...weeellllll....maybe bouldering!), either on top rope or on lead. I've enlisted the help of my climbing friends and I'm also looking for more to help me on my climbing journey. Follow along on my blog or let's get out to climb!


60 Pitches and Counting!

# of Pitches - Route/Crag - Location - Type - Date
1 - Trestle Slab, Frankenstein Cliffs, Ice Climbing - 1.7.2019
2 - Moss Slab, Stonehouse Pond, Ice Climbing - 1.11.2019
4 - Moss Slab, Stonehouse Pond, Ice Climbing - 1.13.2019
2 - Moss Slab, Stonehouse Pond, Ice Climbing - 1.26.2019
4 - Leprechaun's Lement, Kinsman Notch, Ice Climbing - 2.17.2019
4 - North End Pillars, Cathedral Ledge, Ice Climbing - 2.25.2019
3 - Parking Lot Wall, Rumney, Ice Climbing - 3.2.2019
7 - Moss Slab, Stonehouse Pond, Ice Climbing - 3.3.2019
1 - North End Slab, Cathedral Ledges, Ice Climbing - 3.11.2019
5 - Lost In The Forest, Frankenstein Cliffs, Ice Climbing - 3.17.2019
2 - Parasol Gully, Dixville Notch, Ice Climbing - 4.14.2019
3 - Deer Leap, Rock Climbing, Killington, VT - 5.12.2019
2 - Ship's Prow, Rattlesnake Rocks, MA, Rock Climbing - 5.25.2019
3 - Main Cliff & Meadows, Rumney Rocks, NH - 5.27.2019
5 - Rattlesnake Rocks, MA Rock Climbing, - 6.1.2019
6 - Buffalo Corral, Rumney Rocks, NH - 6.9.2019
4 - Mt. Forist, Rock Climbing, Berlin, NH - 6.22.2019
6 - DLM Memorial - Multi-Pitch Rock Climbing, Mt. Forist, Berlin, NH - 7.4.2019
5 - Buffalo Pit & Buffalo Corral, Rumney Rocks, NH - 7.6.2019
2 - Redrocks, Gloucester, MA - 7.14.2019
4 - Parking Lot Wall, Rumney Rocks, NH - 8.3.2019
1 - Marlow, NH - 8.11.2019
2 - Farley Ledges, MA - 9.28.2019
2 - Thin Air, Cathedral Ledge, NH - 9.29.2019
3 - Ice Cream Parlor, UT - 10.26.2019
4 - Parking Lot Wall & Meadows, Rumney Rocks, NH - 11.1.2019
2 - Leprechaun's Lement, Kinsman Notch, Ice Climbing - 12.22.2019

Friday, July 5, 2019

DLM Memorial - Multi-Pitch Rock Climbing



mt. forist, pitch 5, slab, rock climbing, DLM memorial, madigan area
Making my way up the beautiful slab of pitch 5 on the DLM Memorial (5.7)

Met up with Jackie for another climb on Mt. Forist in Berlin, NH. This time to do some multi-pitch climbing. Not gonna lie, that 1st pitch of DLM Memorial route (5.7) sketched me out! So instead of going straight up, I climbed to the left (large flakes) and slung a tree branch/root. And then traversed right to the bolt for even more runout sketchy-ness! Intend to climb this route again so I can go straight up on the start of P1 instead of wimping out. :)

This route hasn't been ticked off of MP since 2017, but that doesn't mean no one has climbed it. A lot of sections were really dirty and looked like it doesn't see a lot of traffic. And in some sections, there was a lot of sand making for slippery foot placements. But overall, the route was an amazing adventure! 6 pitches with 6 rappels on a single 70m rope.

The night before I stayed at the Christmas Farm & Inn Spa. Super quaint and so quiet at night - I had a very good night sleep the night before our climb. Had a wonderful dinner in their dining room and then went for a walk around the premises. Thank you, Jackie, for your help and support for my "Turning 60 and Climbing About It" project!  With today’s climbing, I’m at 21 leads of 64 pitches! Enjoy some photos of our climb on DLM Memorial route and of the Christmas Farm & Inn Spa. 



Looking up at the DLM Memorial route from the parking area.
Visible is P3 to the headwall on the last pitch.

Bringing Jackie up P1
DLM Memorial, Mt. Forist, multi pitch, slab climbing, rock climbing

At the P2 belay station



DLM Memorial, Mt. Forist, multi pitch, slab climbing, rock climbing
Going thru the gap of bushes of P3 was scary sketchy as the dirt was soft and moved under my feet. It felt spongey, like stepping on a pillow. (**lots of swear words used here)

P3 is only 85 feet so I climbed beyond the anchors and past 3 bolts to a tree on the left to set up an anchor. It was a nice shady place to take a break and get something to eat. From there, Jackie climbed passing a double bolt anchor used for rap line, and to the base of the slab of P5.


Bringing Jackie up the beautiful slab of P5.
P5 is indeed beautiful, it's all friction climbing!
5 bolts to a 0.4 cam under the flake near the anchors.
DLM Memorial, Mt. Forist, multi pitch, slab climbing, rock climbing


Looking down the slab of P5 and Madigan Street, below.
DLM Memorial, Mt. Forist, multi pitch, slab climbing, rock climbing

Left: Jackie making her way up P6.
Right: Jackie at the anchors of the headwall.
DLM Memorial, Mt. Forist, multi pitch, slab climbing, rock climbing


Jackson, NH, New Hampshire Inns, Spas

Sunday, June 23, 2019

Mt. Forist - Multi Pitch Rock Climbing



madigan, mt. forist, rock climbing, slab climbing,
Leading P2 of Madigan (5.6)


If you love slab like I do, go climb Mt. Forist! :)

A stellar day for some multi-pitch rock climbing with Jackie at Mt. Forist in Berlin, NH. The two routes we climbed were a great intro to the climbing and the rock feel of this mountain. In the shade the rock was slick and the climbing felt sketchy. But in the sun, the rock was amazing and uber sticky! We also bumped into Jeff Lea and Tom Callahan, who gave us great beta on the climbing routes there. We started on Madigan with Jackie leading P1 and me finishing up on P2. Then for P1 I lead Nibroc and we finished up with Jackie leading P2 of Brown School. Rain clouds and some thunder showed up quickly while I was making my way up to Jackie at the P2 anchors of Brown School. It turned cold really fast too. We hurried down just in case there was lightening as well. Double 70m got us down in 1 rappel.  Afterward, we all headed to the White Mountain Cafe & Bookstore for some post climbing coffee and sandwiches!

Thanks, Jeff for the photos. And thank you, Jackie, for your help and support for my "Turning 60 and Climbing About It" project!  Enjoy a few photos taken of our day multi-pitch rock climbing at Mt. Forist. Can't wait to get back to do more climbing there!


multi pitch, rock climbing, mt. Forist
Jackie (left) leading P1 of Madigan.
Tom (right) at the anchors of Nibroc


Nibroc, mt. Forist, rock climbing, multi pitch
Jeff at the anchors of Nibroc
(photo taken from P1 anchors of Madigan)



madigan, mt. forist, multi pitch, rock climbing
Bringing Jackie up P2 of Madigan


Brown school, mt. forist, multi pitch, rock climbing
Jeff at the P2 anchors of Brown School
(photo taken from P2 anchors of Madigan)


Nibroc, mt. forist, multi pitch, rock climbing
Bringing Jackie up Nibroc


multi pitch, rock climbing, madigan, nibroc, brown school


Tuesday, May 28, 2019

Memorial Day Weekend 2019 Rock Climbing



Magic Helmet (5.10b), Main Cliff Wall, Rumney Rocks, NH, rock climbing


Rattlesnakes. 

That's the theme for this Memorial Day rock climbing, but it wasn't intentional. Spent Saturday hiking and climbing Rattlesnake Rocks at Rattlesnake Hill with Iskuhi. And on Monday Jackie, Andy and I climbed at the Meadows and the Main Cliff of Rumney Rocks on the south face of Rattlesnake Mountain. What fun climbing with great company! 

And thanks, Iskuhi, Jackie & Andy for the photos and your help and support for my "Turning 60 and Climbing About It" project! 


Meadows & Main Cliff - Rumney Rocks
Rattlesnake Mountain
Rumney, NH

Deceptively hard. So we were on our way to the Main Cliff from Meadows when at the top of the trail we spotted Magic Helmet. Jackie wondered out loud what grade it was and Andy quickly answered, "a 5.3." We stopped to look at and I decided to lead it. Then Jackie looked it up on MP and said it was a 5.10b. *laughs all around* I got on it to lead anyways. Don't know why, but I find slab starts highly attractive. This slab start to the first bolt was a bit slick. And finding those double jugs to side pull up onto a sloping ledge was super cool! But clipping the 4th bolt from that sloping ledge was insane! After clipping the 4th bolt, I still couldn't figure out the sequence to get around the arete so I lowered and Andy and Jackie gave it a go. I still didn't get it after a second chance so I'll be back - after getting more beta and on it as a first climb of the day. It was frustrating not being able to finish, but I did get to lead Supersize Me. Jackie did a great job of leading Rose Garden (5.7). And we ended the day on Supersize Me (5.6) and Fat Man (5.7)

Jackie leading Rose Garden
rose garden, rock climbing, rumney rocks, NH, sport, lead climbing
Along the trail
Shealyn's Way, Centerfold, rock climbing, sport climbing, Rumney Rocks, NH

supersize me, magic helmet, sport climbing, rock climbing, leading, rumney rocks, NH






Ship's Prow - Rattlesnake Rocks
Blue Hills Reservation
Quincy, MA

Iskuhi and I spent the day hiking and climbing Rattlesnake Rocks in the Blue Hills Reservation. I had winter-hiked there a couple of years ago hoping to find the climbing crags but never did find them. Today we found the crags and also found a closer area to park and hike from. There is off-road parking where the Skyline Trail crosses Wampatuck Road, which shortens the hike from the trailhead of the ice rink. There is a gate but it's locked for access only to emergency vehicles and shouldn't be blocked. But if you travel (southwest) along Wampatuck Road (slightly uphill), you will come to another gate, where no parking is allowed. This is mentioned in the guidebook, but what's not mentioned is the large off-road parking between these two gates. There is a trailhead from this parking area and this is easier access to the crags. Use the sidewalk on the other side of the street.




Anyways, like the Deer Leap climbing a couple of weeks ago, this was a recon to find the crags. We also got in several climbs and rappels - Ship's Prow (5.7), Ship's Prow Starboard (5.4) and the ramp section of Hot Shot - White Face. And there was only one other group of two climbing - they did two routes and left. I didn't find any mention in MP or the guidebook, but if you do any top rope setups, bring a long static line. There are no bolted anchors and some of the solid trees are set back a little ways. So with that, enjoy some photos of our day at Rattlesnake Rocks. 


At the top of The Overlook
The Overlook, rattlesnake rocks, rock climbing, cragging, boston

The Ship's Prow
the shp's prow, rattlesnake rocks, rock climbing, cragging, boston

From the top of Ship's Prow
ship's prow, rattlesnake rocks, rock climbing, cragging, boston

Jams of Joy
jams of joy, rattlesnake rocks, rock climbing, cragging, boston

Lay Back Further & Relax A Bit More
lay back further & relax a bit more, rattlesnake rocks, rock climbing, cragging, boston

Iskuhi checking out The Shield
The Shield, rattlesnake rocks, rock climbing, cragging, boston


Burger Boulder
rock climbing, Ship's Prow, Rattlesnake Rocks, Blue Hills Reservation

Monday, May 13, 2019

Deer Leap - Rock Climbing


On Center Crack (5.7)
My first day out on the rock this season and I met up with Jackie and Noah for some Mother's Day climbing in Killington, VT! This was our first time climbing at this roadside crag and we had it all to ourselves, except for the hikers. We met up in the Long Trail trailhead parking lot just across the street from the Inn at Long Trail. Took the hiker's trail to the top of Deer Leap Mountain, and then hiked down a side trail to the base of the climbs of the Main Cliff - Left End. We set up top rope anchor on a set of anchors at the top of the Toot Route (5.7) and climbed the route-starts off The Monkey (5.8), Center Crack (5.7) and Turkeyland (5.8). The rock felt really good, sticky...even the quartz was sticky! Cool-to-cold temps kept the bugs away and on our way out, we hiked down the climber's trail passing the climbs of the Lower Tier. Enjoy some photos of our day climbing at Deer Leap crag. And thanks, Jackie & Noah for the photos and your help and support for my "Turning 60 and Climbing About It" project! 


Jackie on Turkeyland (5.8 PG13)
Noah starting up "The Monkey" and onto "Center Crack"



The Deer Leap Mountain Summit
End of maintained trail - from here we descended to the left

And hiked past this face which I think is the "Upper Tier"

Guidebook


At the base of the Main Cliff - Left End
Looking into "The Pit"
(not really a good photo of the pit)

Start of Off Width (5.6)
The Long Trail trailhead parking lot
from the base of the Main Cliff - Left End


Descending along the Climber's Trail
Yes, it is steep

I think this is the Lower Tier area which is
accessed via the Climber's Trail

The sign at the Deer Leap Overlook Trailhead

Monday, April 15, 2019

Parasol Gully, Dixville Notch - Multi Pitch Ice Climbing


Parasol Gully, Dixville Notch, ice climbing, multi pitch, hero ice, NKGphoto.com
Bringing Jackie up the 1st pitch of Parasol Gully
(me in the bright green pants)

Looking up at Parasol Gully (WI2+) from the pullout, we had no idea if the ice was good. In fact, I was actually skeptical. But Jackie said, "let's go take a walk up there and check it out." And so we did. And I'm so glad that we did. Jackie and I had been considering Parasol Gully since last October, but weather and other plans always got in the way. Today we were staring up at fat blue ice, in the shade. I can certainly understand why this route would be on the list of the top 10 ice climbs in New Hampshire. The climbing is fun, straight-forward. And the views of the notch from along the route are gorgeous! We even bumped into Nick and Isa who climbed a couple of laps on the route.

This climb was a little over 3.5 hours drive from my home in Massachusetts. So I opted to stay overnight in Colebrook. I had dinner and breakfast at the Wilderness Restaurant on Main Street. I stayed at the Colebrook Country Club Motel (not a country club) and although the rooms are very dated, the room was clean, it was very quiet at night and the staff was very friendly and helpful. 

All in all, it was a pretty damn stellar day for climbing - hero ice, plenty of sun, warm enough to belay gloveless, and no wind. Towards the end of the day, the sun gave way to clouds so in no way was the sun ever on the route. And when we left the parking, it started to drizzle. Certainly can't complain about mid-April, spring ice climbing! Thanks, Nick for the photos - it was great to finally meet you and Isa while out climbing. And thanks, Jackie for the photos and your help and support for my "Turning 60 and Climbing About It" project - at this point, I'm more than halfway to my 60-pitch climbing goal! 

Parasol Gully, Dixville Notch, ice climbing, multi pitch, hero ice


Parasol Gully, Dixville Notch, ice climbing, multi pitch, hero ice




We ended up skipping the ramp of the 1st pitch and scrambled off to the right, through the snow section and to a couple of trees to get our harness and gear on.

Parasol Gully, Dixville Notch, ice climbing, multi pitch, hero ice








From there we scrambled up to the edge of the ice and started the climb.


Parasol Gully, Dixville Notch, ice climbing, multi pitch, hero ice


Parasol Gully, Dixville Notch, ice climbing, multi pitch, hero ice

Parasol Gully, Dixville Notch, ice climbing, multi pitch, hero ice


Parasol Gully, Dixville Notch, ice climbing, multi pitch, hero ice, NKGphoto.com


Parasol Gully, Dixville Notch, ice climbing, multi pitch, hero ice


Parasol Gully, Dixville Notch, ice climbing, multi pitch, hero ice, NKGphoto.com


Parasol Gully, Dixville Notch, ice climbing, multi pitch, hero ice





On our way out we followed Nick and Isa's bootprints. Jackie took this photo of Nick and Isa on their 2nd lap up.
Parasol Gully, Dixville Notch, ice climbing, multi pitch, hero ice




....and then we did the butt slide down to the parking. The End.

Cormier Magness (5.6) - Multi pitch Rock Climb

 It was a short, but brutal hot day for us! But still glad to be able to get out and onto a couple of pitches of the Cormier Magness route o...