Friday, March 29, 2019

Crack Climbing & Sport Leading Lesson #11



Icy pond next to Salt Pump Gym

Felt great to finish off the week of climbing with a climbing lesson with Tino! I try to get in at least one lead climb a week whether it's outdoor or indoor climbing. It definitely helps to keep a lead head! We worked on "Sloper" holds and I realized that certain body techniques used are very similar to the body techniques used in crack climbing. On my lead lesson, I really love that instead of just clipping my rope into the quickdraws, I get to place the quickdraws! Indoor climbing gyms already have quickdraws set on the lead routes so that the lead climber just clips into them. But since I'm having a lead climbing lesson, Tino put me on routes where there are no quickdraws...the routes with the top rope setups. That way I get to place the quickdraws as well as clip my rope into them - so much more interesting and enjoyable!

During my crack climbing lesson, I found the slightly overhanging, upper section of the crack to be easier than in the past lessons. And so is reading the crack to see the right places for good hands and feet jams. But I felt insecure about some of my jams. "Not all jams will feel totally secure", says Tino. I feel defeated. "Don't worry, you can do this....just climb past the jam", he says. He's right and I am hopeful! Embrace crack climbing! 

Sunday, March 17, 2019

Lost In The Forest, Frankenstein Cliff - Ice Climbing




Lost in the woods, frankenstein ice, crawford notch
Leading the right side of Drip In The Woods

We took a look at Willey's Slide from the road and although there was blue ice, there was a lot of snow on the left and bottom of the slide. Plus it was super windy. So Nuno and I opted to check out Frankenstein Ice. Good choice - we stuck to the sheltered Lost In the Woods area. We hiked up to the base of the ice cliffs and there were a pair just finishing up. I led the right side of Lost In The Woods (WI2) and set up a top rope anchor, and Nuno and I climbed a couple of laps. Since the left side was full of snow, we just climbed laps on the center and right sides. Then I led the right side of Drip In The Woods (WI4) and set up a top rope anchor so we could finish up on the steep curtain. Warm, lots of sun and a good day for ice climbing! Thanks, Nuno for your help and support for my "Turning 60 and Climbing About It" project - at this point, a little more than halfway to my 60-pitch climbing goal! 


Nuno on Drip In The Woods


From the top of Lost In The Forest

Lost In The Forest



Monday, March 11, 2019

North End Slab, Cathedral Ledge - Ice Climbing





Met up with Brandie to climb at the North End of Cathedral today. We parked at the intersection of Cathedral Ledge and Chapel roads and walked in. We got up to the base of Thresher with the intent for me to lead a quick climb. But with too much fresh snow, I bailed after placing the first piece of pro - so much work clearing the snow in order to look for a good placement. There was a guide and his group of clients at the North End Slab so we headed over. They had just finished up and was climbing at the Pillars. There was a lot of snow on the slab, but I knew there was a trail where the guide and his clients went up so I could follow. I got up about 4 feet past my first piece of pro when I realized that my right crampon had popped off. I'm all about downclimbing but when I placed my crampon-less foot in a pocket it slipped out. I looked over at Brandie and said: "I'm going to fall if I continue to downclimb." So I put in a piece of pro and had Brandie lower me so I could put my crampon back on and continue climbing. So much snow, but it was such a gorgeous day! Afterward, Brandie and I had (Poke) lunch at Delaney's Hole In the Wall. 

Thanks, Brandie for the photos and your help and support for my "Turning 60 and Climbing About It" project! ❤️ 



The top of the slab. Lots of snow and in 
some places, the snow was quite deep.




Looking up the North End Slab


Shaka!!
North End Slab, Cathedral Ledge, NH

Poke Salad Lunch
Poke, sushi, spring rolls, japanese, north conway


Sunday, March 3, 2019

Weekend Ice Climbing



Did a small lead as my last climb of the day
Moss Wall, Stonehouse Pond, NH

What a great weekend of climbing. I got in a couple of small leads and lots of top rope laps at Rumney and Stonehouse Pond. I had climbed rock at Rumney many times but it was my first time EVER ice climbing at Rumney and it was a blast! Originally we were supposed to climb at Frankenstein Cliff on Saturday but Nancy forgot her snow pants. I suggested Rumney or the North End of Cathedral because both are sheltered. We decided on Rumney and it turned out to be a good alternative. Rumney was 8 degrees warmer and when we got there, there were some folks leaving. We got in some laps and I got to lead that dirty little route on the right!  😁 


Parking Lot Wall Pano
rumney, ice climbing, parking lot wall


On Sunday I met up with Adam and Kyle at Stonehouse Pond. They each brought two others who were new to ice climbing. The new climbers were having a great time learning. Eric and I paired up to climb and it was fun to give him some beta about climbing and ice screws as well. Happy to get in some laps and a small lead as well! ❤️

Thanks to all your help and support this weekend in my "Turning 60 & Climbing About It" project! 27 pitches down, 33 left to go!