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Showing posts with the label downclimb

North End Slab, Cathedral Ledge - Ice Climbing

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Met up with Brandie to climb at the North End of Cathedral today. We parked at the intersection of Cathedral Ledge and Chapel roads and walked in. We got up to the base of Thresher with the intent for me to lead a quick climb. But with too much fresh snow, I bailed after placing the first piece of pro - so much work clearing the snow in order to look for a good placement. There was a guide and his group of clients at the North End Slab so we headed over. They had just finished up and was climbing at the Pillars. There was a lot of snow on the slab, but I knew there was a trail where the guide and his clients went up so I could follow. I got up about 4 feet past my first piece of pro when I realized that my right crampon had popped off. I'm all about downclimbing but when I placed my crampon-less foot in a pocket it slipped out. I looked over at Brandie and said: "I'm going to fall if I continue to downclimb." So I put in a piece of pro and had Brandie lower me so I c…

Beginner's Easy Variation - Multi Pitch Rock Climbing

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Belaying Nuno up P2
Congratulations Nancy! It was Nancy's first time on a multi pitch rock climb, and it was a lot of fun to be included on her special day! It was also gratifying to help her experience her first multi pitch rock climb. We climbed Beginner's Easy Variation on Whitehorse Ledge. After we got to the P2 belay at the tree, it started to snow light flurries - and then it just colder! In the middle of P2 I ran into a bit of trouble. 15 feet above my last piece of protection the rope wouldn't budge - it was stuck and I couldn't climb any further. Nuno had slack on his end and said it looked like the ropes were stuck around the corner. I had no choice but to downclimb to my last piece of protection. Then Nuno lowered me to the corner where I removed the pro, unstuck the ropes and flipped them onto the top of the corner. It was fine from then on. But it just kept colder so we bailed after completing P3. We used my 70m double ropes and rapped down in 2. Thanks Nun…

Cormier-Magness 2016 - Multi Pitch Fall Rock Climb

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Cormier-Magness (5.6)
Trad, 8 Pitches, 1150 feet
Whitehorse Ledge
North Conway, NH

No Rope? Wait. What? I yelled back to Sean that I needed more rope and his reply was clearer. "No Rope!" What I thought was insane rope drag, was in fact, the end of our rope. I had gotten onto a small ledge with a tree stump and had 12 feet more to the anchor at the end of the 6th pitch, The Low Beer Light pitch. Down-climbing was my only option. No worries. I had used the tree stump as a hold to get up to it, so it would have to do as a hold to get down. I girth-hitched a cordelette to the stump, then connected my anchor to it. I lowered myself slowly, unclipped my anchor from the cordelette and downclimbed by stemming the holds I stemmed to come up. 8 feet below this stump I had placed a #1 cam and removed it. 25-30 feet below the stump ledge was a ledge with several trees where I set up my anchor and brought Tom and Sean up. 

Sean, Tom and I climbed this route last July, with Sean leading. Like…