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Showing posts from January, 2017

Leprechaun's Lement Gully (WI2) - Ice Climbing

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Leprechaun's Lement Gully (WI2) Thanks for the belay, Ken!

Usually when I shut off my truck engine, the headlamps automatically turn off. But not today. Had to make a trip back down to the parking lot to turn them off. If you ice climb at Kinsman Notch, you know that very steep approach well. Great warmup hiking the approach twice, fer sure. But would have rather spent the warmup actually climbing. But my truck - she started right up. ;)
Met Ken and Dominique for some mellow climbing at Kinsman Notch. Ken thought the ice might be thin from the thaw, but the conditions were really good!  I thought it would be crowded but we had the climbs all to ourselves. Counting the three of us, plus a solo climber, two parties of 2, and a guided group, there were 18 total at the crag today. At one point we even left our rope hanging on the Leprechaun's Lement route and went to check out The Beast. Enjoy a few photos taken of our day.


Dominique on Leprechaun's Lement (left) and Hanging By A …

Flume Cascade - Solo Ice Climbing

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Flume Cascade  (WI2)
Crawford Notch, NH

When you can't get any ice lead practice in, the next best thing is to solo climb (for me anyways). 

So solo climb I did, up the Flume Cascade, just up past the bulge on the right. Did expect to climb farther than 200 (?) feet. But lots of postholing, and finally a decision not to walk across on some f**king-scary ice (aka ice with very loud sound of rushing water under it) turned me back. Solitude and beautiful views. Will have to come back another day!






Followed the footprints up the right side of the cascade. Wasn't familiar with which side of the cascade the water flowed, so I studied a lot of photos of the falls that were taken in the summer/fall months. This gave me an idea as to which side to stay on, especially with the warm temps.















Got up to this bulge on the right. Climbed the low angle ramp to the left of it and found a level floor of ice with running water beneath it. That's when I decided to turn back.




Looking back. The grade wa…

Handmade insulated beanies for winter sports enthusiasts!

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Orange Paisley
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Lost In The Forest - Ice Climbing

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Lost In The Forest
Frankenstein Cliffs


A frigid cold, but fun day at Lost In The Forest! Met Ken, Zarina and Tim for a cold day of cragging.  - 4 in the parking lot at the start of our day. I got in a couple of top rope laps; some solo-climbing on short, low-angle ice; some downclimbing practice; and some anchor building. So good to be back climbing at Frankenstein Cliffs and looking forward to coming back during the ice season!



We think think that's Art Mooney at the top of Chia





Leprechaun's Lement (WI2-3) - Ice Climbing

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Thanks for the belay, Ken!
Great to get out on the ice for the first time this season - a meetup event at the Kinsman Notch in Woodstock, NH. Just got a couple of top rope laps in but my last climb of 2016 was a lead on the fun & easy, Leprechaun's Lement. The grade was easy (WI2-3) but the ice brittle, so I re-bored a couple of screw holes. 

At one point I looked up and thought that it would so much faster if I didn't place any protection and just climbed this route to its anchor. I have to admit that thoughts of solo-climbing an easy grade has crossed my mind several times. But I have to learn to keep mum about it. I find that openly expressing an interest in solo-climbing freaks people out. 

Climbing this grade was uber fun. Shit, leading is fun! And if you've been reading my climbing posts, you've probably noticed that there have been several multi-pitch climbs where I have climbed as a "follower/middle" climber. I'm trying to get away from this type…