Crack climbing is hard. 😄 I took private lessons from Tino and it was both fun and hard learning how to crack climb on the 5.9 Crack at the Salt Pump Climbing Gym. I love climbing at Salt Pump - thanks to Noreen for the belay and video of my practice climbs.
Thursday, May 12, 2022
Thursday, April 1, 2021
It's 2019 and it's the big 6-0 this year! Yes, I turn 60 July 10th and what better way to celebrate than to climb, climb, climb throughout the entire year! My big 60 goal would be to make 60 outdoor climbing pitches by the end of 2019! All disciplines (except bouldering...weeellllll....maybe bouldering!), either on top rope or on lead. I've enlisted the help of my climbing friends and I'm also looking for more to help me on my climbing journey. Follow along on my blog or let's get out to climb!
60 Pitches and Counting!
# of Pitches - Route/Crag - Location - Type - Date
1 - Trestle Slab, Frankenstein Cliffs, Ice Climbing - 1.7.2019
2 - Moss Slab, Stonehouse Pond, Ice Climbing - 1.11.2019
4 - Moss Slab, Stonehouse Pond, Ice Climbing - 1.13.2019
2 - Moss Slab, Stonehouse Pond, Ice Climbing - 1.26.2019
4 - Leprechaun's Lement, Kinsman Notch, Ice Climbing - 2.17.2019
4 - North End Pillars, Cathedral Ledge, Ice Climbing - 2.25.2019
3 - Parking Lot Wall, Rumney, Ice Climbing - 3.2.2019
7 - Moss Slab, Stonehouse Pond, Ice Climbing - 3.3.2019
1 - North End Slab, Cathedral Ledges, Ice Climbing - 3.11.2019
5 - Lost In The Forest, Frankenstein Cliffs, Ice Climbing - 3.17.2019
2 - Parasol Gully, Dixville Notch, Ice Climbing - 4.14.2019
3 - Deer Leap, Rock Climbing, Killington, VT - 5.12.2019
2 - Ship's Prow, Rattlesnake Rocks, MA, Rock Climbing - 5.25.2019
3 - Main Cliff & Meadows, Rumney Rocks, NH - 5.27.2019
5 - Rattlesnake Rocks, MA Rock Climbing, - 6.1.2019
6 - Buffalo Corral, Rumney Rocks, NH - 6.9.2019
4 - Mt. Forist, Rock Climbing, Berlin, NH - 6.22.2019
6 - DLM Memorial - Multi-Pitch Rock Climbing, Mt. Forist, Berlin, NH - 7.4.2019
5 - Buffalo Pit & Buffalo Corral, Rumney Rocks, NH - 7.6.2019
2 - Redrocks, Gloucester, MA - 7.14.2019
4 - Parking Lot Wall, Rumney Rocks, NH - 8.3.2019
1 - Marlow, NH - 8.11.2019
2 - Farley Ledges, MA - 9.28.2019
2 - Thin Air, Cathedral Ledge, NH - 9.29.2019
3 - Ice Cream Parlor, UT - 10.26.2019
4 - Parking Lot Wall & Meadows, Rumney Rocks, NH - 11.1.2019
2 - Leprechaun's Lement, Kinsman Notch, Ice Climbing - 12.22.2019
Friday, May 29, 2020
Climbing Beginner's Class with Iskuhi on my belay
Nuno, Iskuhi, and I met up for some climbing at Middlesex Fells. We all live in Massachusetts and when we meet up to climb, we usually head north to places like Rumney, New Hampshire to climb. But with the pandemic, Rumney and many of our favorite climbing crags in New Hampshire are closed. So we met up to do some climbing at Pinnacle Rock, in the Black & White Rocks crag. In the parking lot, we didn't do any hugs, high-5's, or handshakes, but we never did anyways. We hiked to Crag 1 (Pinnacle Rock) maintaining social distancing and there was no one else on the trail. We purposely chose to climb on a weekday because it would be less crowded as the weekends here are mobbed by hikers and climbers.
I'm sure Nuno and Iskuhi came prepared, but in case they didn't, I had extra facemasks, hand wipes, and hand sanitizer - which I also carry in my truck, golf bag, and hiking backpack.
At the crag, we were the only climbers, and the only other people we saw that day was a group of 6 hikers on the main trail. I bought my trad rack with the intention of doing some trad leading but decided not to because the rock felt really slick and I personally don't like the idea of leading in muggy weather - I have a fear of slipping off the rock in muggy weather. After two hours of climbing, we called it quits because it just got way too muggy. Enjoy some photos of our day of climbing.
Monday, September 30, 2019
Met up with Iskuhi, Danica, and Jen at Farley Ledge. A bit crowded (a group of 13 at one area!) and managed to get in a lead and some climbs. Also met a bunch of really nice climbers (and dogs) as well. Super fun day!
Thin Air, Cathedral Ledge
Jackie and I met up in the Cathedral Ledge parking lot. At the base of Thin Air. Jackie lead the first pitch and brought me up. I hemmed and hawed and finally decided to lead the second pitch. Everything was going great until I reached a really sketchy section and realized I didn't have the cam I needed. I knew right off the bat..." that crack was a #2 because that's my hand jam size." The feet at this particular section was sketchy, but I had to make sure. So I tried a #0.75 and #1, but both were too small. And the #3 and it was too big. I came back down to the little ledge and looked back at Jackie at the belay. I had both number 2's already placed. And why the hell did I place that #1 so closely to the second #2.......WTF Lovena? With no #2 to place, I had two choices. Climb through the section that sketched me out or bail. I bailed and back climbed to Jackie at the belay and she finished up leading the traverse. We rapped after the second pitch. Back down on the ground, I had a really good cry to get it out of my system. I don't know why, but I was really off today and crying was out of frustration and to vent. It felt good - time to move on!
Sunday, August 4, 2019
Leading Cafe au Lait (5.6)
Monday, July 15, 2019
Leading Roll The Bones (5.5)
Nuno leading Roll The Bones (5.5)
Animals (5.5) on the
Pink Floyd Wall
Left side of the Pink Floyd Wall
The second bolt of Atom Heart Mother and
the first bolt of Unnamed Bolted Face are rusty.
Nuno at the anchors of Pink Floyd Wall
Route 128 in the background thru trees
Reuse, Repurpose & Recycle
Tuesday, May 28, 2019
That's the theme for this Memorial Day rock climbing, but it wasn't intentional. Spent Saturday hiking and climbing Rattlesnake Rocks at Rattlesnake Hill with Iskuhi. And on Monday Jackie, Andy and I climbed at the Meadows and the Main Cliff of Rumney Rocks on the south face of Rattlesnake Mountain. What fun climbing with great company! ♥
And thanks, Iskuhi, Jackie & Andy for the photos and your help and support for my "Turning 60 and Climbing About It" project!
Meadows & Main Cliff - Rumney Rocks
Deceptively hard. So we were on our way to the Main Cliff from Meadows when at the top of the trail we spotted Magic Helmet. Jackie wondered out loud what grade it was and Andy quickly answered, "a 5.3." We stopped to look at and I decided to lead it. Then Jackie looked it up on MP and said it was a 5.10b. *laughs all around* I got on it to lead anyways. Don't know why, but I find slab starts highly attractive. This slab start to the first bolt was a bit slick. And finding those double jugs to side pull up onto a sloping ledge was super cool! But clipping the 4th bolt from that sloping ledge was insane! After clipping the 4th bolt, I still couldn't figure out the sequence to get around the arete so I lowered and Andy and Jackie gave it a go. I still didn't get it after a second chance so I'll be back - after getting more beta and on it as a first climb of the day. It was frustrating not being able to finish, but I did get to lead Supersize Me. Jackie did a great job of leading Rose Garden (5.7). And we ended the day on Supersize Me (5.6) and Fat Man (5.7).
Jackie leading Rose Garden
Along the trail
Ship's Prow - Rattlesnake Rocks
Blue Hills Reservation
Iskuhi and I spent the day hiking and climbing Rattlesnake Rocks in the Blue Hills Reservation. I had winter-hiked there a couple of years ago hoping to find the climbing crags but never did find them. Today we found the crags and also found a closer area to park and hike from. There is off-road parking where the Skyline Trail crosses Wampatuck Road, which shortens the hike from the trailhead of the ice rink. There is a gate but it's locked for access only to emergency vehicles and shouldn't be blocked. But if you travel (southwest) along Wampatuck Road (slightly uphill), you will come to another gate, where no parking is allowed. This is mentioned in the guidebook, but what's not mentioned is the large off-road parking between these two gates. There is a trailhead from this parking area and this is easier access to the crags. Use the sidewalk on the other side of the street.
Anyways, like the Deer Leap climbing a couple of weeks ago, this was a recon to find the crags. We also got in several climbs and rappels - Ship's Prow (5.7), Ship's Prow Starboard (5.4) and the ramp section of Hot Shot - White Face. And there was only one other group of two climbing - they did two routes and left. I didn't find any mention in MP or the guidebook, but if you do any top rope setups, bring a long static line. There are no bolted anchors and some of the solid trees are set back a little ways. So with that, enjoy some photos of our day at Rattlesnake Rocks.
At the top of The Overlook
The Ship's Prow
From the top of Ship's Prow
Jams of Joy
Lay Back Further & Relax A Bit More
Iskuhi checking out The Shield
Monday, May 13, 2019
|On Center Crack (5.7)|
My first day out on the rock this season and I met up with Jackie and Noah for some Mother's Day climbing in Killington, VT! This was our first time climbing at this roadside crag and we had it all to ourselves, except for the hikers. We met up in the Long Trail trailhead parking lot just across the street from the Inn at Long Trail. Took the hiker's trail to the top of Deer Leap Mountain, and then hiked down a side trail to the base of the climbs of the Main Cliff - Left End. We set up top rope anchor on a set of anchors at the top of the Toot Route (5.7) and climbed the route-starts off The Monkey (5.8), Center Crack (5.7) and Turkeyland (5.8). The rock felt really good, sticky...even the quartz was sticky! Cool-to-cold temps kept the bugs away and on our way out, we hiked down the climber's trail passing the climbs of the Lower Tier. Enjoy some photos of our day climbing at Deer Leap crag. And thanks, Jackie & Noah for the photos and your help and support for my "Turning 60 and Climbing About It" project!
|Jackie on Turkeyland (5.8 PG13)|
|Noah starting up "The Monkey" and onto "Center Crack"|
|The Deer Leap Mountain Summit|
End of maintained trail - from here we descended to the left
|And hiked past this face which I think is the "Upper Tier"|
|At the base of the Main Cliff - Left End|
Looking into "The Pit"
(not really a good photo of the pit)
|Start of Off Width (5.6)|
|The Long Trail trailhead parking lot|
from the base of the Main Cliff - Left End
|Descending along the Climber's Trail|
Yes, it is steep
|I think this is the Lower Tier area which is|
accessed via the Climber's Trail
|The sign at the Deer Leap Overlook Trailhead|
Saturday, January 12, 2019
Moss Slab Wall
Along the trail
Phil taking some practice swings and kicks
Sunday, September 16, 2018
Dome Face Right (5.8)
Another stellar day for climbing! This morning Noreen, Nuno and I headed out to The Dome at Pawtuckaway State Park. At first the weather didn't look promising, but forecasts called for afternoon sun. The morning fog did eventually burn off and blue skies warmed up the slab quickly. It was peaceful and we had this crag all to ourselves.
Nuno setting up top rope
Nuno start, Another Face (5.7)
Noreen on the Pine Tree Crack (5.5)
This crag is perfect for a hammock!
Left: Start on the Half Moon Crack (5.7)
Right: Making my way up the crack in the short corner.
Looking down from the finish, Dome Face Right
The Dome overlooks the marsh that feeds Round Pond
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