Showing posts from October, 2018

Beginner's Easy Variation - Multi Pitch Rock Climbing

Belaying Nuno up P2
Congratulations Nancy! It was Nancy's first time on a multi pitch rock climb, and it was a lot of fun to be included on her special day! It was also gratifying to help her experience her first multi pitch rock climb. We climbed Beginner's Easy Variation on Whitehorse Ledge. After we got to the P2 belay at the tree, it started to snow light flurries - and then it just colder! In the middle of P2 I ran into a bit of trouble. 15 feet above my last piece of protection the rope wouldn't budge - it was stuck and I couldn't climb any further. Nuno had slack on his end and said it looked like the ropes were stuck around the corner. I had no choice but to downclimb to my last piece of protection. Then Nuno lowered me to the corner where I removed the pro, unstuck the ropes and flipped them onto the top of the corner. It was fine from then on. But it just kept colder so we bailed after completing P3. We used my 70m double ropes and rapped down in 2. Thanks Nun…

Beginner's Route - Rock Climbing

At the anchor of Beginner's Route

Well, I sure didn't expect to lead a trad route here at Rumney, but there's always a first time! We headed up to the Parking Lot wall first and Jackie and I both warmed up leading A Week With Pete (5.3). Then Jackie lead the route to the left of it, Shealyn's Way (5.7). 

Photo right: Jackie at the anchor of Shealyn's Way.

Looking down from the Beginner's Route anchor
We headed to the Meadows and was looking at Bolt Line (5.8) when I spotted Beginner's Route (5.5). So I ran down to my truck and grabbed my trad rack. Part way up the route I thought I may not have enough pro and quickdraws....from here I had to manage placing pro to make certain I had two quickdraws left for the anchor. And at the ledge just before the anchors, there was sooooo much rope drag. I realized then I should've brought my alpine draws along to use. I asked Jackie what I should do and she said to take up some rope and carry it up to the anchor. I was …

Indoor Drytooling - MetroRock Station

My first time Drytooling
The pieces of black squares under some of the holds are rubber
Was supposed to get some climbing/leading done in Bolton, VT but rain prevented that. So I headed to MetroRock Station in Essex Junction, VT and Jackie showed me some “Drytooling” moves! It’s was fun, intense and hard...just like crack climbing!  I can't wait to try this again, but on some real rock! We also did some climbing with Dry Ice Tools. Unfortunately, we had to cut our climbing session short because the climber's chalk and poor air filtration in this gym triggered my asthma.

Jackie crushing it!

We left the gym and headed to the Outdoor Gear Exchange to ogle over the climbing gear. Their consignment basement is huge! Some old pitons and hexes hanging on the wall. Afterwards we had dinner at the Asiana Noodle Shop.

Laughing Gull - Rock Climbing

Pano of Main Crag
Super fun, super mellow day of rock climbing at Redrock in Gloucester with Etha! I didn't expect to climb my second 5.11 slab today, but sure glad I did. The start of Laughing Gull was so polished so I started to the left just under the cresent. Found a really good foothold to gain the cresent. Finding holds at the mid-section was definitely challenging. But that left-leaning crack was a sweet finish.

Etha also didn't expect to climb a 5.12 today, but she did and she killed it! She climbed the Andromeda Direct Start, without even knowing she was doing the Direct - we both hadn't looked at the guidebook or MP beta on this climb. While belaying her I kept telling myself, "this couldn't be a 5.11!" Sure enough, after she finished the climb, we looked it up in the guidebook and got all giddy when we realized that she took the direct start and climbed her first outdoor 5.12 -- Congratulations!
Zipper was a fun layback. I started up the Zipper route …