Showing posts with the label crawford notch

Lost In The Sun - Multi Pitch Rock Climbing

Lost In The Sun (5.5) Leading Pitch 1 Nuno and I headed to Crawford Notch, NH to do some multi-pitch climbing on Mt. Webster. It was our first time climbing on Mt. Webster. Nuno suggested Lost In The Sun (5.5) and I happily agreed so long as he led the hike up to the base of the climb.  I've never climbed on Mt. Webster but several years ago, while shopping at Lahouts in Laconia, an employee suggested I try this route. He even scribbled its name on a piece of register machine paper, which I still have.  We parked at the pullout opposite of Willey's Slide parking and walked east along the road. At the 45.6 marker we headed down and crossed the Saco River. We didn't see any trail so we just kept walking 'up' . After about 15-20 minutes Nuno found the trail with cairns and orange tape tied to trees. This brought us along the drainage gully. This gully got steeper and as we neared the base of the route, there were larger boulders, some of which were lo

LHMW Bypass Slab - Multi Pitch Ice Climbing

Nuno and I climbed the LHMW Bypass Slab at Crawford Notch. Swapped leads including the two snow pitches up to the base of The Cleft. Had originally planned to climb the LHMW (Left Hand Monkey Wrench) and The Cleft but there were a couple of parties already on both of the climbs. Sunny and breezy.....multi-pitch raps and a hike down on the trail back to tracks....great day for climbing!

Lost In The Forest, Frankenstein Cliff - Ice Climbing

Leading the right side of Drip In The Woods We took a look at Willey's Slide from the road and although there was blue ice, there was a lot of snow on the left and bottom of the slide. Plus it was super windy. So Nuno and I opted to check out Frankenstein Ice. Good choice - we stuck to the sheltered Lost In the Woods area. We hiked up to the base of the ice cliffs and there were a pair just finishing up. I led the right side of Lost In The Woods (WI2) and set up a top rope anchor, and Nuno and I climbed a couple of laps. Since the left side was full of snow, we just climbed laps on the center and right sides. Then I led the right side of Drip In The Woods (WI4) and set up a top rope anchor so we could finish up on the steep curtain. Warm, lots of sun and a good day for ice climbing!  Thanks, Nuno for your help and support for my  "Turning 60 and Climbing About It"  project - at this point, a little more than halfway to my 60-pitch climbing goal!  Nuno on Drip

Trestle Slab (WI3) - Ice Climbing

Trestle Slab (WI3) Frankenstein Cliffs Crawford Notch, NH Hello 2019!  My first ice climbing outing of the season/year - and it did not disappoint! Mellow day of ice climbing at Frankenstein Cliffs in Crawford Notch, NH. Nuno and I took a late start and climbed the Trestle Slab (WI3) . I lead up to the tree at the top of the middle of the slab where there are a couple of cordelettes with rap rings, then brought Nuno up. It was very warm especially with one too many layers on. We had the slab all to ourselves and it was a super chill day of climbing! And thanks Nuno for your help and support for my "Turning 60 and Climbing About It" project!

Arethusa Falls (WI3-4) - Ice Climbing

Pano photo of Arethusa Falls Arethusa Falls (WI3-4) Crawford Notch, NH Beautiful bluebird day for some spring ice climbing! John and I checked out Walk In The Forest and it wasn't looking good. Most of it was in full sun and looking really baked (scary). I suggested we check out Arethusa Falls so we back-tracked along the railroad tracks and headed up the Arethusa Falls Trail. The 1.5 mile trail was well-packed and there were some hikers already coming down. They confirmed solid ice and no flowing water like John and Phil had encountered couple weeks prior. Like Waterfall (WI3) the week before, we had the falls all to ourselves. But there were many photographers, hikers and their dogs who came to the falls while we were climbing. John did a fantastic job leading up the left-center. At the start the ice was solid. But at the middle there was a lot of snow and about 3/4 way the ice was pretty bad, but under it was solid. The flowing water in the center definitely caught my a

Left Hand Monkey Wrench (WI3) - Ice Climbing

Got to the base of the Left-Hand Monkey Wrench and I started up the ice.  I hadn't even put my first piece in yet when my belayer kept asking me if I knew what I was doing.  From then on I didn't want to even be there climbing with her.  Near the top of  Left-Hand Monkey Wrench,  I stopped and made the decision to back off. So I downclimbed while removing my pro. I'm so glad I quit when I did. Better safe than sorry! Lesson learned! Having a lead belayer who starts doubting you (out loud) as you're climbing, is no fun to climb with - it also says a lot about their own lack of confidence.  Before I go out on a climb, especially a multi-pitch climb, I always  make sure I'd be comfortable on that grade and with that climber.  If not, I don't go. And if I'm leading, I always ask my belayer if they are comfortable lead belaying me on a climb. If not, I don't go.

Flume Cascade - Solo Ice Climbing

Flume Cascade  (WI2) Crawford Notch, NH When you can't get any ice lead practice in, the next best thing is to solo climb (for me anyways).  So solo climb I did, up the Flume Cascade, just up past the bulge on the right. Did expect to climb farther than 200 (?) feet. But lots of postholing, and finally a decision not to walk across on some f**king-scary ice (aka ice with very loud sound of rushing water under it) turned me back. Solitude and beautiful views. Will have to come back another day! Followed the footprints up the right side of the cascade. Wasn't familiar with which side of the cascade the water flowed, so I studied a lot of photos of the falls that were taken in the summer/fall months. This gave me an idea as to which side to stay on, especially with the warm temps. Got up to this bulge on the right. Climbed the low angle ramp to the left of it and found a level floor of ice with running water beneath it. T

Private Lead Ice Climbing Lesson - Day 2

On the sharp end! Thresher (WI3) Cathedral Ledge, NH Today I had my second private lesson with Alexa Siegel of Cathedral Mountain Guides.  We headed out to Cathedral Ledge for the day. It was warm and we didn't know if it would be good for me to start leading, but there were cold temps for several nights providing some good enough ice. So when we got there, we found that the conditions of the ice were ideal for learning to lead. I had good sticks and feet all day! I ended up leading two easy short routes at Cathedral; the North End slab (WI2) & Thresher (WI3). At the North End Pillars I did a warm up climb on top rope, then a mock lead climb on top rope. On my warm-up climb I got to try out Alexa's Nomic Ice Tools and they were definitely aggressive and weighed differently from my Quarks. She also had pick weights on her tools. Following my warm-ups, I got a lesson in building an anchor with one ice screw and a v-thread. Alexa After a quick s

Frankenstein Cliffs - Ice Climbing

Frankenstein Cliffs Lost In The Forest Crawford Notch, NH Hero ice is better than no ice!  My buddy Geoff is a leader with the AMC Berkshire  and organized an ice climb for today. We met up in the upper parking lot of the Arethusa Falls trailhead along with Steve, John, Dane, Toby and Graham. The day before NEClimb  posted ice conditions which were very promising, so I was counting on getting in some laps! We hiked across the trestle and stopped to read the ice at the slab area - so thin in most parts and baked as well. So we continued down the tracks until we got to the bottom of Lost In The Forest. There were only two parties of 2 already climbing so we made our way up. To the left of Lost was a lower angle slab so one rope was set up and used for warming up, the other 3 ropes were set up on Lost. The rest of the day was pretty mellow with the 7 of us climbing. There was lots of fat ice, but it was soft and easy for the tools and kicks. It made it easy for me to practi