Creepy Cowboy (5.7) - Multi pitch Rock Climb

Swapped leads with Nuno on a new route on Whitehorse Ledge in North Conway, NH. Fun 2-pitch, slabalicious route called Creepy Cowboy (5.7).

September Weekend Climbing

Farley Ledge
Met up with Iskuhi, Danica, and Jen at Farley Ledge. A bit crowded (a group of 13 at one area!) and managed to get in a lead and some climbs. Also met a bunch of really nice climbers (and dogs) as well. Super fun day! 

Thin Air, Cathedral Ledge
Jackie and I met up in the Cathedral Ledge parking lot. At the base of Thin Air. Jackie lead the first pitch and brought me up. I hemmed and hawed and finally decided to lead the second pitch. Everything was going great until I reached a really sketchy section and realized I didn't have the cam I needed. I knew right off the bat..." that crack was a #2 because that's my hand jam size." The feet at this particular section was sketchy, but I had to make sure. So I tried a #0.75 and #1, but both were too small. And the #3 and it was too big. I came back down to the little ledge and looked back at Jackie at the belay. I had both number 2's already placed. And why the hell did I place that #1 so closely to the second #2.......WTF Lovena? With no #2 to place, I had two choices. Climb through the section that sketched me out or bail. I bailed and back climbed to Jackie at the belay and she finished up leading the traverse. We rapped after the second pitch. Back down on the ground, I had a really good cry to get it out of my system. I don't know why, but I was really off today and crying was out of frustration and to vent. It felt good - time to move on! 

Beginner's Easy Variation - Multi Pitch Rock Climbing

Belaying Nuno up P2 

Congratulations Nancy! It was Nancy's first time on a multi pitch rock climb, and it was a lot of fun to be included on her special day! It was also gratifying to help her experience her first multi pitch rock climb. We climbed Beginner's Easy Variation on Whitehorse Ledge. After we got to the P2 belay at the tree, it started to snow light flurries - and then it just colder! In the middle of P2 I ran into a bit of trouble. 15 feet above my last piece of protection the rope wouldn't budge - it was stuck and I couldn't climb any further. Nuno had slack on his end and said it looked like the ropes were stuck around the corner. I had no choice but to downclimb to my last piece of protection. Then Nuno lowered me to the corner where I removed the pro, unstuck the ropes and flipped them onto the top of the corner. It was fine from then on. But it just kept colder so we bailed after completing P3. We used my 70m double ropes and rapped down in 2. Thanks Nuno for the lead belays and for including me. We'll be back to finish up the route when the temps are warmer.

Belaying Nancy up P1

Belaying Nancy up P2

Nuno at the tree belay

Nancy making her way up P3

Nancy rappelling 

The West Chimney: Eaglet Spire - Multi Pitch Rock Climb

On the Eaglet Spire summit

The West Chimney (5.7)
Trad, 3 Pitches, 200 feet
Eaglet Spire
Greenleaf & Climbers Trails
Franconia Notch, NH

Cool temps are perfect for a hike and a climb in Franconia Notch! Sean and I met up with his son Tom and a few other Boy Scout troop members at the Lafayette Campground parking lot. We hiked up to Lonesome Lake to lunch and enjoy the views. After about an hour, Tom and the scouts went on their way to the Cannon summit. They had a long day ahead with plans to continue onto the Cannon summit, the Cannonballs, an overnight stay at the Kinsman Pond shelter, and then a second day bagging the north and south Kinsman peaks. 

Sean and I headed up to Exit 34B and parked on the side of the off-ramp at the Greenleaf Trailhead. We hiked up the Greenleaf Trail and took the "climbers trail" to the Eaglet Spire. Sean had climbed the Eaglet Spire 16 years ago and had been wanting to get back to climbing it again, so I was really looking forward to this climb. At the base of the route I felt that same excitement I always get when I'm about to ride a really cool roller coaster. Only thing, today I was going to climb a spire! I was stoked! Enjoy some photos of our day at Franconia Notch.

Lonesome Lake

Photos Lovena Harwood and Eric Reitter

On our way up to the Spire there were 5 parties ahead of us, some already making their way down. At the trailhead parking lot we bumped into Jay, Katlyn and little Bella who were on their way up. Making their way down from a hike were Will and his 3 kids. It's a popular place, and one I hope to visit again! 

The final push up the talus field

Gearing up at the base of the route

Profile Lake down behind me

Making my way up P1

Making my way up the 'chimney' of P2. 

Another use for the selfie stick!

P3

P3 the traditional way. 

That bolt is reachy and the Mountain Project beta is spot on!

And yes, I grabbed it to get onto the ledge above it.

Eagle Cliff

Making my way up P3

Some old pins

At the summit!
Left to right: Anchors, rap rings, Profile Lake

Atop the Eaglet Spire summit
The tiniest summit I've ever been on!

Twilight rappel
(there are a couple of overhanging sections on this steep rappel)

Franconia Notch at twilight

Hike out in the darkness

I am thankful that Alexa told me about the Sterling Hollowblock (shown below) during my private ice lead lesson this past winter. Afterwards I went straight over to IME and bought one, it's just $12! Today this "$12 piece of gear" saved my ass! That first step off of the Eaglet Spire is known to be notorious. As I was going over the edge to rappel, both my feet slipped out under me. I only fell a few inches and into the wall, but it was enough to make me let go of the rope and a sling that I was holding onto. That HollowBlock caught me - always back up your rappels!  Sterling Rope of Biddeford, Maine, USA. **Next time I climb this, will set up the rap from the rap rings that are higher.

Beginners Route - Multi Pitch Rock Climb

Beginners Route (5.5)

Trad

Whitehorse Ledge

North Conway, NH

We were both were surprised when we pulled into the parking lot. We expected the parking lot to be packed, but it wasn't. When we got to the base of the Slabs, Sean and I were the only climbers there. But after finishing up the second pitch, a group of three showed up at the base of the C-M route to set up top rope at the pine tree. And a 3rd party of two climbers showed up for Sliding Board just as we were finishing up our 3rd pitch. 

Back to climbing with Sean again. He had injured his foot earlier in the season and only now was getting back to climbing. Since he was still experiencing a bit of pain when walking, we decided to cut the route short to rappel down instead of topping off and walking down the trail. We only climbed the first 5 pitches (490ft) but I got to lead the first 3 pitches. It was so much fun, especially that 2nd pitch. I was also stoked that we had no one behind us on the route. I didn't feel rushed and I was able to focus on looking for pro placements. 

Trad lead is addicting. Besides the mechanical aspect of the sport, I love that it involves problem-solving and climbing/risk management - it's totally fun! Looking forward to more trad climbing!

I didn't get a chance to take a lot of photos, so here are a few. Too busy climbing! ;D

Looking up at P2 from the belay

Bringing Sean up P2

Looking up at P3 from the belay

I was tempted not to place any pro

on this pitch since the climb was so

easy,  but I did end up placing 3 pieces; a cam, a pink tricam, and then another cam.

Little pedestal at the end of P4

Piton just above the P5 belay

Views from the Smile Belay

Square & Whitehorse Ledges – Rock Climbing

Square Ledge

Beautiful day for climbing! My buddy Geoff and I headed out to Square Ledge, Pinkham Notch’s local crag. You can see this cliff from the AMC Pinkham parking lot. Access is super easy from the AMC Pinkham Visitor Center – just park and cross the street (Route 16) to the Lost Pond trailhead. Cross over the wooden bridge, then turn left onto the Square Ledge Trail. Lots of tourists also headed to the top of the ledge to photograph the Ravines, Washington, Adams and Madison.  Afterwards we headed to Whitehorse Ledge where I got to lead the 2^nd pitch of Sea Of Holes. Thanks for a great climbing day Geoff! Enjoy some photos taken of our day!

Hangover Rock

The face of Square Ledge

Thanks for the belay!

Gorgeous views of Pinkham Notch from 

the top of Square Ledge

Checking out Thriller Arete

At Whitehorse Ledge I got to lead the second pitch of Sea Of Holes. I gotta get used to climbing slab with all the gear hanging off me. Didn't even need it all considering I clipped into a piton and then I placed a .50 cam and then a #1 micro cam to the anchors.

At the anchor of P2 Sea Of Holes 

(I actually couldn't find the anchor at first. Started up to the tree on the

left as it had a sling and biner around it. Then I traversed back to the right

and after figuring out where to put my 3rd piece of pro, I spotted the anchors.)

Looking over to Cathedral Ledge

Endeavor - Multi Pitch Rock Climb

Shaka from the belay station of Endeavor

Endeavour (5.7+)

7 pitches, 550 feet, Grade III

Trad

White's Ledge, Bartlett, NH

What a great day for a multi pitch rock climb! It was super hot with some humidity, but Endeavor was fun to climb, especially that 2nd pitch! We got a late start and waited in line for our turn so we only did 4 pitches. Also, rather than continue up and right to a pocketed crack system, we stayed to the left. So our 4th pitch was done climbing part of the 4th pitch of The White Streak ( 5.7). 

The approach

Up the Talus field

At the base

Tom coming up P1

At the belay station of P2

This area is bolted for Sport climbing and located

just left of the belay station of P2. Don't know if it's

"Endeavor Variation (5.9+)" or "Something Different (5.10a)"

Making my way up P2

Tom coming up P2

Tom and Sean at the belay station P3.

Relax after climbing P2

Tom and I at the belay station as

Sean makes his way up P3

Finishing up P3

Tom P3

Tom P3

Looking up our last pitch

Making my way up P4

Tom P4

Our climbing route Endeavor (5.7+)

Yellow line = route

Pink circle = belay stations

We climbed 4 pitches with our 4th pitch

climbing part of the P4 of The White Streak (5.7).

(we left a cordelette and 2 biners for our rap)