Showing posts with label gloucester. Show all posts
Showing posts with label gloucester. Show all posts

Sunday, September 13, 2020

Redrocks Gloucester - Rock Climbing


The Masters Wall

Spent the morning climbing at Redrocks with Jeni. We had planned to climb at the "Down Under Wall" but couldn't find it, so we headed to the Main Wall. We started by each leading Roll The Bones 5.6, a sport route on the left side of the Main Wall. Since it was Jeni's first time at Redrocks, I wanted to set up a top rope on the center of the Main wall, particularly The Zipper. But a party of 7 was already setup, complete with two hammocks. :) So we climbed Luck Of The Irish 5.8 and The Vatican 5.7 on the Masters Wall. Then finish on The Pink Floyd Wall climbing Meddle 5.6, And I gave the Unnamed Bolted Face 5.10 a try but could only get up to its first bolt.




Jeni on Meddle (5.6)




Monday, July 15, 2019

Redrocks - Rock Climbing




sport lead, redrocks, gloucester, rock climbing, slab climbing
Leading Roll The Bones (5.5)

Don't like the humidity and heat, but love climbing more! This morning, Nuno and I met up at Redrocks in Gloucester, MA. to get in a couple laps of climbing. Started on the Main Crag warming up on High Me (5.7), then getting a short sport lead in on Roll The Bones (5.5). Afterwards, we moved onto the Pink Floyd Wall crag. By noon it was so, so humid and the wall was super slippery. So slippery I couldn't even finish Atom Heart Mother (5.6). And I attempted Meddle (5.6) but my hand jams kept slipping out - even with my Ocun crack gloves on! I really wanted to just try and get into the crack up to the midpoint, but I couldn't keep my hand jammed. I'd love to get back to give the Pink Floyd Wall a try again but when it isn't so humid. Thank you Nuno, for your photos and your help and support for my "Turning 60 and Climbing About It" project!  With today’s climbing, I’m at  27 leads of 71 pitches! Enjoy some photos taken of our day.

Nuno leading Roll The Bones (5.5)
sport lead, redrocks, gloucester, rock climbing, slab climbing

Animals (5.5) on the 
Pink Floyd Wall

Left side of the Pink Floyd Wall
The second bolt of Atom Heart Mother and 
the first bolt of Unnamed Bolted Face are rusty.

Meddle (5.6)
crack climb, pink floyd wall, redrocks, gloucester, MA. rock climbing

Nuno at the anchors of Pink Floyd Wall
Route 128 in the background thru trees
rock climbing, pink floyd wall, redrocks, gloucester, MA.

bouldering, rock climbing, pink floyd wall, redrocks, gloucester, MA


Reuse, Repurpose & Recycle


Tuesday, October 2, 2018

Laughing Gull - Rock Climbing


Redrock, Gloucester
Pano of Main Crag

Super fun, super mellow day of rock climbing at Redrock in Gloucester with Etha! I didn't expect to climb my second 5.11 slab today, but sure glad I did. The start of Laughing Gull was so polished so I started to the left just under the cresent. Found a really good foothold to gain the cresent. Finding holds at the mid-section was definitely challenging. But that left-leaning crack was a sweet finish. 

Etha also didn't expect to climb a 5.12 today, but she did and she killed it! She climbed the Andromeda Direct Start, without even knowing she was doing the Direct - we both hadn't looked at the guidebook or MP beta on this climb. While belaying her I kept telling myself, "this couldn't be a 5.11!" Sure enough, after she finished the climb, we looked it up in the guidebook and got all giddy when we realized that she took the direct start and climbed her first outdoor 5.12 -- Congratulations!

Zipper was a fun layback. I started up the Zipper route climbing it like a crack, but meh, it's more of a flake climb and I quickly had to layback on it. The climb is fun, but way too short. 



Etha also didn't expect to climb a 5.12 today, but she did and she killed it! She climbed 5.12, Andromeda Direct Start, without even knowing she was doing the Direct - we both hadn't looked at the guidebook or MP beta on this climb. While belaying her I kept telling myself, "this couldn't be a 5.11!" Sure enough, after she finished the climb, we looked it up in the guidebook and got all giddy when we realized that she took the direct start and climbed her first outdoor 5.12 -- Congratulations!
Left to right: Andromeda Direct Start (5.12), 
Zipper (5.6), Laughing Gull (5.11)



Toe Jams was an interesting crack. Etha, who lead Toe Jams and is smaller than me, could get her legs including her knee right into the OW section at the start of the climb. She lead it and then I tried to lead it. I found it wasn't going to be as easy as Etha made it out to be. It was too wide for foot jamming, but too narrow to even get my knee into it. As a result, it sketched me out and I backed down. That's the first (and I'm sure not the last) time I ever backed down from a lead climb. I TR'd it afterwards and still found the start sketchy. Near the top is perfect (for me) #2 handjams and smaller. Perhaps having doubles of #3 and #2 to place at the OW beginning may have lessened the sketchy-ness?



Lots of polished surfaces on a lot of these routes, but it was fun to get out to climb before the rain. We had this crag all to ourselves today. Last time I climbed here was 7 years ago. Hoping to get back soon to get on those routes we didn't have a chance to climb.


The top of the Masters Wall from the top of the Main Crag


Along the trail

YouTube Channel - Hawaii Girl Adventures

Check out my YouTube channel at:  Hawaii Girl Adventures I will eventually be phasing out blog posts and be posting videos of my climbing, h...