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Showing posts with the label slab climbing

Buffalo Pit & Buffalo Corral - Rock Climbing

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The arete of Lonesome Buffalo (5.8)
Brought some of my favorite climbing friends together for a day of cragging at Buffalo Pit and Buffalo Corral in Rumney. Got an early morning start to beat some of the humidity, heat and possible thunderstorms. Fun climbing Innocent Prairie Dog (5.1), Mr. Buffoolo To You (5.4), Sunny Side Up (5.10c), Lonesome Buffalo (5.8), Mild Horses (5.5), Ghost Pine (5.6), Bleached Bones (5.7) and Book Of Sins (5.5). We spent most of the morning at Buffalo Pit and then headed to Buffalo Corral for more climbing. Didn't stay long...the heat and the humidity continued. But mostly I didn't feel like continuing to listen to the guy on the 5.9+ Flaming Arrow constantly swearing. He couldn't make the crux and was literally throwing a temper tantrum. 

Yes, the humidity and heat were brutal. But the climbing and friends more than made up for it. And a great big MAHALO - Nuno, Jackie, Noah, Iskuhi and Danica for your help and support for my "Turning 60 and…

DLM Memorial - Multi-Pitch Rock Climbing

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Making my way up the beautiful slab of pitch 5 on the DLM Memorial (5.7)
Met up with Jackie for another climb on Mt. Forist in Berlin, NH. This time to do some multi-pitch climbing. Not gonna lie, that 1st pitch of DLM Memorial route (5.7) sketched me out! So instead of going straight up, I climbed to the left (large flakes) and slung a tree branch/root. And then traversed right to the bolt for even more runout sketchy-ness! Intend to climb this route again so I can go straight up on the start of P1 instead of wimping out. :)

This route hasn't been ticked off of MP since 2017, but that doesn't mean no one has climbed it. A lot of sections were really dirty and looked like it doesn't see a lot of traffic. And in some sections, there was a lot of sand making for slippery foot placements. But overall, the route was an amazing adventure! 6 pitches with 6 rappels on a single 70m rope.

The night before I stayed at the Christmas Farm & Inn Spa. Super quaint and so quiet at night…

Mt. Forist - Multi Pitch Rock Climbing

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Leading P2 of Madigan (5.6)

If you love slab like I do, go climb Mt. Forist! :)
A stellar day for some multi-pitch rock climbing with Jackie at Mt. Forist in Berlin, NH. The two routes we climbed were a great intro to the climbing and the rock feel of this mountain. In the shade the rock was slick and the climbing felt sketchy. But in the sun, the rock was amazing and uber sticky! We also bumped into Jeff Lea and Tom Callahan, who gave us great beta on the climbing routes there. We started on Madigan with Jackie leading P1 and me finishing up on P2. Then for P1 I lead Nibroc and we finished up with Jackie leading P2 of Brown School. Rain clouds and some thunder showed up quickly while I was making my way up to Jackie at the P2 anchors of Brown School. It turned cold really fast too. We hurried down just in case there was lightening as well. Double 70m got us down in 1 rappel.  Afterward, we all headed to the White Mountain Cafe & Bookstore for some post climbing coffee and sandwiche…

Buffalo Corral - Rock Climbing

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Leading Stampede (5.8)


Buffalo Corral
Rumney Rocks
Rumney, NH

If you love slab like I do, go climb Buffalo Corral.

Met up with Nuno and David at Buffalo Corral of Rumney Rocks. It was our first time climbing there and we had a really great day. The parking lot is large and I'm hoping that the little clearing off to the side will be the location of the new outhouse. The approach is super short and the crag is well-shaded. There are trails on both sides of the slab to access the top to set up top rope anchors. We didn't do any top rope climbing today, just leading. We pretty much started on the right side of the slab and worked our way to the left side. David lead Mild Horses (5.5), Ghost Pine (5.6), Bleached Bones (5.7) and Flaming Arrow (5.9+).  And both Nuno and I lead all the routes but the 5.9+ Flaming Arrow. 3 other groups showed up and they mostly climbed the right side of the slab. Thanks, Nuno and David for the photos and your help and support for my "Turning 60 and Cli…

Laughing Gull - Rock Climbing

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Pano of Main Crag
Super fun, super mellow day of rock climbing at Redrock in Gloucester with Etha! I didn't expect to climb my second 5.11 slab today, but sure glad I did. The start of Laughing Gull was so polished so I started to the left just under the cresent. Found a really good foothold to gain the cresent. Finding holds at the mid-section was definitely challenging. But that left-leaning crack was a sweet finish.

Etha also didn't expect to climb a 5.12 today, but she did and she killed it! She climbed the Andromeda Direct Start, without even knowing she was doing the Direct - we both hadn't looked at the guidebook or MP beta on this climb. While belaying her I kept telling myself, "this couldn't be a 5.11!" Sure enough, after she finished the climb, we looked it up in the guidebook and got all giddy when we realized that she took the direct start and climbed her first outdoor 5.12 -- Congratulations!
Zipper was a fun layback. I started up the Zipper route …

Sliding Board - Multi Pitch Summer Rock Climb

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Shaka from Pitch 2 Belay of Sliding Board

Sliding Board (5.7R)
Trad, 9 Pitches, 1000 feet
Whitehorse Ledge
North Conway, NH

I love climbing The Slabs of Whitehorse Ledge. But today I couldn't wait to get off of it! When the lead climber (of the group of 4 in front of us) starting shrieking, my only thought then was that Sean and I had to get the fuck off Whitehorse......

Although I was eager to lead, I was nervous because I had never climbed Sliding Board. I was also nervous watching the group in front of us. It was obvious that no one in this group knew where they were going. One of their lead climbers, who was about 20 feet above the second bolt of the second pitch, turned to a guide who was anchored in the "crystal pocket" and asked him where the anchor was. He answered, "10 feet to your left, or 100 feet above you." She traversed to her left and found the anchor. Lots of places to put pro in cracks, but she didn't put any between that second bolt and the anch…