Lost In The Sun - Multi Pitch Rock Climbing
Lost In The Sun (5.5)
Leading Pitch 1
I've never climbed on Mt. Webster but several years ago, while shopping at Lahouts in Laconia, an employee suggested I try this route. He even scribbled its name on a piece of register machine paper, which I still have.
We parked at the pullout opposite of Willey's Slide parking and walked east along the road. At the 45.6 marker we headed down and crossed the Saco River. We didn't see any trail so we just kept walking 'up'. After about 15-20 minutes Nuno found the trail with cairns and orange tape tied to trees. This brought us along the drainage gully. This gully got steeper and as we neared the base of the route, there were larger boulders, some of which were loose. I'm not gonna lie, it was a tough approach. But it was even tougher going downhill, especially with tired, crampy feet.
Along the trail
A few more boulders to scramble over
and we'll be at the base of the climb!
The start of Lost In The Sun route. We arrived at the base of the climb and there were two backpacks there. We had a little bit to drink and eat and geared up, and spotted two climbers making their rappel down. They had just climbed Lost In The Sun.
This wide vertical dike is to the left of the start
I lead the 1st pitch and Nuno took the 2nd. On the 3rd pitch, I lead placing pro in the right-facing corner. But climbing past the first bolt, my foot slipped and I lost my confidence. I downclimbed and had Nuno lower me back to the belay and he finished leading the rest of the pitch. I did lead the 4th pitch with no problems. And Nuno lead the remaining pitches of our climb. The 3rd pitch was my menace of the day. On the rappel down, I dropped my rappel device from the top of the 3rd pitch anchors. Nuno helped me set up a carabiner brake variation using two locking biners. And I did find my rappel device - it landed at the start of our climb.
The nice thing about this route is that the belays are close enough that you can see your climbing partner. The views of Willey's Slide, the Willey House, 302, and Crawford Notch are fantastic! At the top, we took in the views and got some photos before heading back down.
**Nuno tracked our entire day: almost 9 hours car-to-car and 1,100 feet of elevation gain. The route was dry with the exception of pitch 5 where we crossed a trickle of water right off the belay. Weather-wise, it was cloudy most of the time with lots of cool breezes. At one point I was afraid it was going to rain and we'd have to bail without completing the route. We had more than enough rope with 70m doubles. It was a long day, but both fun and rewarding. And on that note, I'm grateful that I still have the stamina to continue in this sport at my age! Enjoy our photos taken on the climb.
From Pitch 4
Willey's Slide from the base of the route
Willey's House on the left and Willey's Slide on the right!