Showing posts with label whitehorse ledge. Show all posts
Showing posts with label whitehorse ledge. Show all posts

Monday, October 22, 2018

Beginner's Easy Variation - Multi Pitch Rock Climbing



Belaying Nuno up P2 

Congratulations Nancy! It was Nancy's first time on a multi pitch rock climb, and it was a lot of fun to be included on her special day! It was also gratifying to help her experience her first multi pitch rock climb. We climbed Beginner's Easy Variation on Whitehorse Ledge. After we got to the P2 belay at the tree, it started to snow light flurries - and then it just colder! In the middle of P2 I ran into a bit of trouble. 15 feet above my last piece of protection the rope wouldn't budge - it was stuck and I couldn't climb any further. Nuno had slack on his end and said it looked like the ropes were stuck around the corner. I had no choice but to downclimb to my last piece of protection. Then Nuno lowered me to the corner where I removed the pro, unstuck the ropes and flipped them onto the top of the corner. It was fine from then on. But it just kept colder so we bailed after completing P3. We used my 70m double ropes and rapped down in 2. Thanks Nuno for the lead belays and for including me. We'll be back to finish up the route when the temps are warmer.


Belaying Nancy up P1


Belaying Nancy up P2
Nuno at the tree belay


Nancy making her way up P3


Nancy rappelling 





Sunday, July 9, 2017

Cormier-Magness 2017 - Multi Pitch Summer Rock Climb

wheat thin arete, whitehorse ledge, cormier-magness
Belaying Tom up pitch 2 - Wheat Thin Arete


Cormier-Magness (5.6)
Trad, 8 Pitches, 1150 feet
Whitehorse Ledge
North Conway, NH

Blueberries, run-outs and slabs, oh my! My favorite place to climb is the run-out slabs of Whitehorse Ledge. When we climbed Cormier-Magness late last summer, I didn't lead P5 & P6 like it should have been lead. So today Sean, Tom and I went back to "re-do" the Cormier-Magness route. I took P1, P2, P5 & P6. Sean took P3 & P4. And 16-year old Tom lead the last two pitches, P7 & P8.  Took up way more gear than was needed. But it was a good day, and the wild blueberries were delicious.  This route (MP) is fun and gorgeous - definitely my favorite route on The Slabs! And thank you Chris Magness for the additional beta! :)




Saturday, October 8, 2016

Cormier-Magness 2016 - Multi Pitch Fall Rock Climb




Cormier-Magness (5.6)
Trad, 8 Pitches, 1150 feet
Whitehorse Ledge
North Conway, NH

No Rope? Wait. What? I yelled back to Sean that I needed more rope and his reply was clearer. "No Rope!" What I thought was insane rope drag, was in fact, the end of our rope. I had gotten onto a small ledge with a tree stump and had 12 feet more to the anchor at the end of the 6th pitch, The Low Beer Light pitch. Down-climbing was my only option. No worries. I had used the tree stump as a hold to get up to it, so it would have to do as a hold to get down. I girth-hitched a cordelette to the stump, then connected my anchor to it. I lowered myself slowly, unclipped my anchor from the cordelette and downclimbed by stemming the holds I stemmed to come up. 8 feet below this stump I had placed a #1 cam and removed it. 25-30 feet below the stump ledge was a ledge with several trees where I set up my anchor and brought Tom and Sean up. 

Sean, Tom and I climbed this route last July, with Sean leading. Like Sean, I had gone past the tree anchor on the short (60') 5th pitch, The Northwest Passage. And that's how I ended up on the "tree stump ledge". Sean said I just had a "lead epic." More like "newbie lead epic" I thought. I told Sean that I had had enough leading for the day and he laughed. We finished out the route with Sean on lead and met several other climbers also topping out before making our way down the hikers trail. 

Amazing views at the top - the fall foliage is coming in beautifully! I enjoyed the route overall and hope to get back. Distractions at the belay, (like that couple from Montreal who didn't know the route and wanted to follow us), as well as not knowing where the next belay station was didn't help my confidence level. So I really want to get back to make P5, The Northwest Passage, right. I will never forget this day. Enjoy a few photos! 

**Although downclimbing is a good skill to have, it could've been prevented today had I read the beta on pitch 5 before leading it, as well as having a more attentive lead belay.


P1, to the pine tree




P2: The Wheat Thin Arete
The "mental crux" pitch

This second pitch wigged me out at first, no lie. It took me a good 5 minutes to get onto the flake. After I got onto the flake and past the little tree in the horizontal crack, I realized that I was making the pitch harder than it really was. The holds got better as I ascended the pitch and I  was able to relax and enjoy the climb. I clipped into the bolts and used the edge of the arete as a hold. I'd definitely lead this pitch again!









Bringing Sean up P2

Tom at the P4 start, The Open Book

Climber Brian on Sea Of Holes with heli in the background

Looking back at the "Sea of Green" on P4




Here's where I ended up setting up anchor after downclimbing. The lead climber (of the Montreal couple) was making his way up as I was downclimbing to this ledge. We laughed as I didn't make the anchor on 60m ropes. And he wasn't sure that his 70m rope would reach the anchor. But it did. 






Tom making his way up P7, The Platinum Slab







Tuesday, September 6, 2016

Beginners Route - Multi Pitch Rock Climb



North Conway, NH

Beginners Route (5.5)
Trad
Whitehorse Ledge
North Conway, NH

We were both were surprised when we pulled into the parking lot. We expected the parking lot to be packed, but it wasn't. When we got to the base of the Slabs, Sean and I were the only climbers there. But after finishing up the second pitch, a group of three showed up at the base of the C-M route to set up top rope at the pine tree. And a 3rd party of two climbers showed up for Sliding Board just as we were finishing up our 3rd pitch. 










Back to climbing with Sean again. He had injured his foot earlier in the season and only now was getting back to climbing. Since he was still experiencing a bit of pain when walking, we decided to cut the route short to rappel down instead of topping off and walking down the trail. We only climbed the first 5 pitches (490ft) but I got to lead the first 3 pitches. It was so much fun, especially that 2nd pitch. 
I was also stoked that we had no one behind us on the route. I didn't feel rushed and I was able to focus on looking for pro placements. 





Trad lead is addicting. Besides the mechanical aspect of the sport, I love that it involves problem-solving and climbing/risk management - it's totally fun! Looking forward to more trad climbing!

I didn't get a chance to take a lot of photos, so here are a few. Too busy climbing! ;D


Looking up at P2 from the belay

Bringing Sean up P2







Looking up at P3 from the belay

I was tempted not to place any pro
on this pitch since the climb was so
easy,  but I did end up placing 3 pieces; a cam, a pink tricam, and then another cam.






Little pedestal at the end of P4


Piton just above the P5 belay




Views from the Smile Belay






Monday, July 6, 2015

Cormier-Magness - Multi Pitch Rock Climb


Cormier-Magness (5.6)
Trad, 8 Pitches, 1150 feet
Whitehorse Ledge
North Conway, NH

My last multi-pitch rock climb before I leave for Colorado! Sean, Tom and I were going to climb Whitney Gilman today but decided that Cormier-Magness may have less of a line. At the base we were behind a group of 3 that included a first time leader and a first time multi-pitch climber. When their 3rd started the second pitch, Sean lead up to the pine tree. 




At the base, you can practice chipping.

P2, "The Wheat Thin Arete", is a blast!
multi pitch rock climb, Whitehorse Ledge

P2, check!

Pitch 3, "The Cajun Washboard"
multi pitch rock climb, Whitehorse Ledge

Pitch 4 "The Open Book"
Sean setting up anchor

Coming up P4
multi pitch rock climb, Whitehorse Ledge

Tom making his way on the final crack of P4

The giant, steep flake of "The Northwest Passage" (P5) is my absolute favorite!!
Here's Tom making his way up - it looks harder than it really is.

Tom on P6 - "The Low Beer Light"
multi pitch rock climb, Whitehorse Ledge

Sean

Along the route I snacked on sweet Blueberries!

Tom and I making our way up P7 - "The Platinum Slab"

At the top!!


Sunday, May 3, 2015

Wavelength – Multi-pitch Rock Climbing

multi pitch rock climb, Whitehorse Ledge

Wavelength (5.8)
1,080 feet, 10 pitches
Whitehorse Ledge
North Conway, NH

May 2nd brought a fabulous day for a first multi-pitch rock climb of the season!

Counting the ‘walk-up’ to the Launch Pad, Sean, Tom and I did 10 pitches today of The Slabs, Center of Whitehorse Ledge. We had blue skies the entire day, climbed the 5.8 pitch listening to Presidential candidate Bernie Sanders’ outdoor convention speech and met a “totally blind” climber on his very first multi-pitch climb.

Our climbing plan; start on the Standard Route’s direct route (Quartz pocket) and if it was dry, onto Wavelength, linking up with the Sliding Board and finishing up on the Standard Route. Sean would lead and Tom and I would second several of the pitches together. 

Enjoy photos taken of our climb!

White Mountain Hotel & Resort with Whitehorse Ledge in the backgound

A little bit of snow at the base of the ledge

Sean leading up to "The Toilet Bowl"
multi pitch rock climb, Whitehorse Ledge

Me on Sean's belay at the "Launch Pad"

Tom and I making our way up from the Launch Pad to the Toilet Bowl
multi pitch rock climb, Whitehorse Ledge

A Piton at the "Quartz Pocket"

Tom finishing up the 4th pitch to the thread
anchor in the main arch. Sean on his belay.
multi pitch rock climb, Whitehorse Ledge

Sean leading the 5.8 pitch!
multi pitch rock climb, Whitehorse Ledge






Tricky pocket section! Great moves for a tall climber, as Sean demonstrates! My short-climber beta; right foot on base. Right hand on small nub. Left hand in lower pocket. All in one move: Step up with left foot to meet left hand in lower pocket. As you push off with right hand and step up onto left foot, bump left hand up to higher, bigger pocket. Match hands and bump right foot up to higher nub. Step up to a bolt.







Happy belayer!

Tom's turn on the 5.8!
Making his way up the face of the brown bulge.

Past the crux and on the dike to the anchor of the 5.8

You damn right I'm happy to be climbing Wavelength!
multi pitch rock climb, Whitehorse Ledge

Making my way up to the anchor just
below the steep headwall of The Sliding Board

Tom's turn to make his way up to the anchor!

Protection along the steep dike through the headwall of The Sliding Board.

Removing pro


Final pitch


Also topping out - safe and sound (left to right) Copp, Tom & Paul
These guys went off route a bit and Sean let them know.
They made the route tougher than it really was and it was
pretty scary watching their lead climber taking a couple of falls.
George Hurley, who was at the base, yelled up
directions to where they were supposed to be. 

Our belay and anchor stations along the route (yellow stars)
Photo: North Conway Rock Climbs Guidebook

Cormier Magness (5.6) - Multi pitch Rock Climb

 It was a short, but brutal hot day for us! But still glad to be able to get out and onto a couple of pitches of the Cormier Magness route o...