Betty - Multi Pitch Rock Climb

Day at the Gunks

Right to left: Lovena, Richard, Alisa & Nicole

Betty (5.3)
Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
Jackie and Friends, The Trapps, The Gunks

Such a stellar day for my first trad lead in the Gunks! I've second several routes at the Gunks many times, but this was my first time leading at the Gunks and it was a most memorable day for me! I lead the 1st pitch of Betty and Nicole lead the 2nd pitch. For the second pitch we took the variation up instead of the chimney. At the finish there were a lot of horizontal cracks which makes the rock look like its stacked - these made for lots of good hand jams! A route doesn't have to be a 'crack climb' in order to utilize its crack(s) as a hold. If you know how to jam, it can make a lot of the climbs easier.

Richard and Alisa paired up to climb Belly Roll and Easy Overhang. Afterwards the four of us checked out Rock and Snow as well as the Rock and Snow Annex. Then sat down for drinks and dinner at the Schazti's Pub & Bier Garden of New Paltz. 

Bringing Nicole up P1 of Betty

The Gunks – Multi pitch rock climb

Belly Roll (5.4)

120 ft, 2 pitches

Jackie and Friends

Betty (5.3)

150 ft, 2 pitches

Jackie and Friends

Twin Oaks (5.3)

190 ft, 2 pitches

The Guides Wall

This weekend was a meetup event with the Mountaineering, Climbing & Backpacking of New England Meetup group! The newly opened Shawangunks Gateway Campground opened for business just weeks before and everything was shiny and new! We pulled into camp Friday night and expected to climb both Saturday and Sunday. But Sunday was a washout so we packed up and headed out in the morning. As for climbing at the Gunks, Saturday was a fun day climbing with Geoff. A sunny, warm day with windy finishes at the tops.

Geoff and I started off with Belly Roll and that “squeeze” through the large crack was, I felt, pretty awkward as well as comical. I slipped and fell on my bad knee on the first pitch of Betty. It was a pretty hard fall on my knee, I wanted to cry but forced myself not to. I had to figure out how to get up that slick section without hurting my knee again, and eventually I did. I loved the second pitch. There was a family of 4 on this climb ahead of us. They went straight up from the belay station. Geoff chose the right side and I’m glad he did. That chimney, to the deck, to the traverse up to the face climb was so fun! Unfortunately, my knee was hurting bad at the end of Betty. So Geoff and I finished the day off on just the first pitch of Twin Oaks (~50 ft).

Enjoy some photos taken of our day at The Gunks. 

Looking up the 1st pitch of Belly Roll

Brian on Dennis route and me on Belly Roll

At the belay station of Belly Roll

Brian and Gabe on the belay station of Dennis

 Geoff at the belay station of Belly Roll

From the top of Belly Roll

Some guy (Peter) solo climbing Betty

(Geoff is already at the belay station)

Coming up P1 of Betty

Gary and Scott at the belay station of RMC

Gary and I at the belay station

Geoff at the belay station of Betty

That fun chimney to start off P2 of Betty

P1 of Twin Oaks

Rappelling

At the Shawangunks Gateway Campground

Footpath along our tent sites

Community Campfire

Main Office

Water isn't free