Showing posts with label zipper. Show all posts
Showing posts with label zipper. Show all posts

Tuesday, October 2, 2018

Laughing Gull - Rock Climbing


Redrock, Gloucester
Pano of Main Crag

Super fun, super mellow day of rock climbing at Redrock in Gloucester with Etha! I didn't expect to climb my second 5.11 slab today, but sure glad I did. The start of Laughing Gull was so polished so I started to the left just under the cresent. Found a really good foothold to gain the cresent. Finding holds at the mid-section was definitely challenging. But that left-leaning crack was a sweet finish. 

Etha also didn't expect to climb a 5.12 today, but she did and she killed it! She climbed the Andromeda Direct Start, without even knowing she was doing the Direct - we both hadn't looked at the guidebook or MP beta on this climb. While belaying her I kept telling myself, "this couldn't be a 5.11!" Sure enough, after she finished the climb, we looked it up in the guidebook and got all giddy when we realized that she took the direct start and climbed her first outdoor 5.12 -- Congratulations!

Zipper was a fun layback. I started up the Zipper route climbing it like a crack, but meh, it's more of a flake climb and I quickly had to layback on it. The climb is fun, but way too short. 



Etha also didn't expect to climb a 5.12 today, but she did and she killed it! She climbed 5.12, Andromeda Direct Start, without even knowing she was doing the Direct - we both hadn't looked at the guidebook or MP beta on this climb. While belaying her I kept telling myself, "this couldn't be a 5.11!" Sure enough, after she finished the climb, we looked it up in the guidebook and got all giddy when we realized that she took the direct start and climbed her first outdoor 5.12 -- Congratulations!
Left to right: Andromeda Direct Start (5.12), 
Zipper (5.6), Laughing Gull (5.11)



Toe Jams was an interesting crack. Etha, who lead Toe Jams and is smaller than me, could get her legs including her knee right into the OW section at the start of the climb. She lead it and then I tried to lead it. I found it wasn't going to be as easy as Etha made it out to be. It was too wide for foot jamming, but too narrow to even get my knee into it. As a result, it sketched me out and I backed down. That's the first (and I'm sure not the last) time I ever backed down from a lead climb. I TR'd it afterwards and still found the start sketchy. Near the top is perfect (for me) #2 handjams and smaller. Perhaps having doubles of #3 and #2 to place at the OW beginning may have lessened the sketchy-ness?



Lots of polished surfaces on a lot of these routes, but it was fun to get out to climb before the rain. We had this crag all to ourselves today. Last time I climbed here was 7 years ago. Hoping to get back soon to get on those routes we didn't have a chance to climb.


The top of the Masters Wall from the top of the Main Crag


Along the trail

Sunday, August 14, 2011

Redrock - Rock Climbing

This is the first time I've been to this crag and its Main wall is pure fun! The dirt parking lot for this rock climbing area isn't difficult to find at all. It's located just beside a storage facility off of route 128 in Gloucester, MA. My granddaughter Ann and I waited for Kellie, Felipe and Cass to show up and then we hiked up to the Main crag. The hike was about a tenth of a mile with a gradual elevation gain. There were green bushes with small vertical stems of tiny white fragrant flowers. How I wished I got photos of them! Their fragrance was a cross between a floral and spearmint and they lined the trail just past the parking lot.

Views from the top of Main Crag!


 Slabby top
Bob & Fellipe setting up anchor on "Steps"
Gear
Kev on the "Zipper"
A great crowd!
Since I like to photog rock climbers from the wall or the top of the cliff, I self-blayed up "High Me" and anchored myself at the tree to photo a couple climbers on "Steps".
Dave on the inside corner
Alex on the inside corner
My view of the top of "Toe Jams". No I did not jam my toes in those cracks! 
This is my rope set up on this route. Kellie taught me how to set up anchor
for this route so I got to use it for the very first time! WOOT!


Cormier Magness (5.6) - Multi pitch Rock Climb

 It was a short, but brutal hot day for us! But still glad to be able to get out and onto a couple of pitches of the Cormier Magness route o...