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Showing posts with the label Cormier-Magness Route

Cormier-Magness 2017 - Multi Pitch Summer Rock Climb

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Belaying Tom up pitch 2 - Wheat Thin Arete

Cormier-Magness (5.6)
Trad, 8 Pitches, 1150 feet
Whitehorse Ledge
North Conway, NH

Blueberries, run-outs and slabs, oh my! My favorite place to climb is the run-out slabs of Whitehorse Ledge. When we climbed Cormier-Magness late last summer, I didn't lead P5 & P6 like it should have been lead. So today Sean, Tom and I went back to "re-do" the Cormier-Magness route. I took P1, P2, P5 & P6. Sean took P3 & P4. And 16-year old Tom lead the last two pitches, P7 & P8.  Took up way more gear than was needed. But it was a good day, and the wild blueberries were delicious.  This route (MP) is fun and gorgeous - definitely my favorite route on The Slabs! And thank you Chris Magness for the additional beta! :)


Enjoy some photos taken of our day - GoPro's Quik app I'm trying out.

Cormier-Magness 2016 - Multi Pitch Fall Rock Climb

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Cormier-Magness (5.6)
Trad, 8 Pitches, 1150 feet
Whitehorse Ledge
North Conway, NH

No Rope? Wait. What? I yelled back to Sean that I needed more rope and his reply was clearer. "No Rope!" What I thought was insane rope drag, was in fact, the end of our rope. I had gotten onto a small ledge with a tree stump and had 12 feet more to the anchor at the end of the 6th pitch, The Low Beer Light pitch. Down-climbing was my only option. No worries. I had used the tree stump as a hold to get up to it, so it would have to do as a hold to get down. I girth-hitched a cordelette to the stump, then connected my anchor to it. I lowered myself slowly, unclipped my anchor from the cordelette and downclimbed by stemming the holds I stemmed to come up. 8 feet below this stump I had placed a #1 cam and removed it. 25-30 feet below the stump ledge was a ledge with several trees where I set up my anchor and brought Tom and Sean up. 

Sean, Tom and I climbed this route last July, with Sean leading. Like…

Cormier-Magness - Multi Pitch Rock Climb

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Cormier-Magness (5.6)
Trad, 8 Pitches, 1150 feet
Whitehorse Ledge
North Conway, NH

My last multi-pitch rock climb before I leave for Colorado! Sean, Tom and I were going to climb Whitney Gilman today but decided that Cormier-Magness may have less of a line. At the base we were behind a group of 3 that included a first time leader and a first time multi-pitch climber. When their 3rd started the second pitch, Sean lead up to the pine tree. 




At the base, you can practice chipping.
P2, "The Wheat Thin Arete", is a blast!
P2, check!
Pitch 3, "The Cajun Washboard"
Pitch 4 "The Open Book" Sean setting up anchor
Coming up P4
Tom making his way on the final crack of P4
The giant, steep flake of "The Northwest Passage" (P5) is my absolute favorite!! Here's Tom making his way up - it looks harder than it really is.
Tom on P6 - "The Low Beer Light"
Sean
Along the route I snacked on sweet Blueberries!
Tom and

Whitehorse Ledge - Multi-pitch Rock Climb

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Sea Of Holes (5.7)
580 feet, 4 pitches
Whitehorse Ledge Conway, NH
Beautiful Father’s Day multi-pitch climbing with Geoff, Jeff and Kevin. We reached the base of “The Slabs” expecting to find it packed. But to our surprise, there were only 3 groups on! Jeff and Kevin headed off to climb the Cormier-Magness Route (5.6), and Geoff and I headed off to climb Sea Of Holes. The first three pitches are slab climbing. I had on short ankle socks and so wished I had worn longer socks. My socks were riding down towards my heels and I could feel blisters coming on. The last pitch contained the crux and I thought it was fun! But I was sketched out because there was so much wet, dirty moss at the end of the pitch. Moss slogging, especially the wet stuff, is NOT fun! Blech! Enjoy some photos I took of our climb up Sea Of Holes.

PS: Geoff says, "Thanks for the cold brew!." When we got down from our climb, someone had left a cold can of beer in Geoff's sneakers! :D
Geoff  leading up the 1st be…