Henderson Ridge – Multi Pitch Rock Climb

Looking down the Huntington Ravine, Mt. Washington, NH

Henderson Ridge (5.4)

4 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III

Trad

Huntington Ravine

Mt. Washington, NH

Nelson Crag (5,635 feet)

Via Nelson Crag Trail from Henderson Ridge

Elevation Gain: 1,055 feet

Mt. Washington, NH

“You folks are going DOWN?? But why??” . . . . said every hiker we encountered as we made our way down the headwall of Huntington Ravine! We explained that we were hiking down into the ravine to rock climb our way back up out of the ravine! Capeesh? They all got it. :) The Huntington Ravine Trail, btw, is considered to be the most difficult hiking trail in the NH White Mountains. And the AMC White Mountain Guide book suggest that “its use for descent at any time is strongly discouraged.” I’ll assume they mean descending the headwall…..that being said…..

I was hoping to get to hike the Huntington Ravine Trail sometime this year and got my chance when Sean, Tom and I did some multi pitch rock climbing in the Huntington Ravine. We decided on the Northeast Ridge at Pinnacle (5.7) with the Henderson Ridge (5.4) as an alternate. And rather than hiking up from the Pinkham Notch Visitor Center, we decided to do the “Modern Approach” also known as the “Auto Road Approach.”  By using the Mt. Washington Auto Road approach, we cut out some hiking mileage from our day. Please note: the Auto Road is steep, narrow and  winding. It has steep drop-offs and  no guardrails. It is not a drive for folks afraid of heights!

We stopped off at the Glen House just across the street from the Auto Road 

toll booth to use the restrooms and grab a snack. At the toll booth the cost for the

3 of us was $44 - $28 for driver and vehicle and $8 for each additional passenger.

I put my truck in the lowest gear, like the CD says to do, and started up.

There were no  vehicles coming down so I pretty much drove in the middle of the road.

In 2012 I drove up the Auto Road with my three oldest grandchildren. I had forgotten 
about that non-paved section of the 5^th mile and felt better once I switched to 4-wheel drive. 
The dirt road was full of loose gravel and there was a lot of running water on it. 

At the 6 mile marker there is the trail sign for the Alpine Garden Trail.

Just a few yards beyond that a small lot to fit 2, maybe 3 vehicles.  

We geared up and got on our way to the Huntington Ravine trail junction. 

Alpine Garden

Mt. Washington summit from the Alpine Garden trail

At the Huntington Ravine trail junction, we stopped to admire

the view into the ravine! The views were amazing!!

Fun on the headwall!

It’s a 4^th class trail, exposed, steep and near vertical in some sections. 

Not recommended if you’re not comfortable with down-climbing.  

Aside from down-climbing fun, the headwall yields some really cool views!

Here's the Fairy Tale Traverse of the Northeast Ridge!

Awesome view of the Henderson Ridge!

On our way down to the base of the Pinnacle Buttress, we stopped to chat with all the hikers on their way up the headwall. We even met “Pepper” and John on their way up. Pepper is a great climber and I later found out that he is the first canine Redline Finisher! Woot! 

After making our way down to the base of the Pinnacle Buttress, we sat and discussed if we should climb the Northeast Ridge or not. There were already two teams on the route and a third team roping up at the base. 

Looking over at the Henderson Ridge, there was no one on it but there were 3 folks between the Yale and Damnation gullies. We thought there were just hikers scrambling around. So we decided to climb the Henderson Ridge and headed on over. To make our way over to the Henderson Ridge, we had to down-climb some more, then bushwhack, then down-climb and a second bushwhack. Then traverse over more talus to the base of the Henderson Ridge. It was my very first time bushwhacking and all I have to say is that I really don’t care very much for it! As I was making my way through the second bushwhack, I stepped into a drop that was about 3 feet deep. I was close to getting impaled but luckily, it’ll just leave a bruise on the side of my right breast! 

We got to the base of the Henderson Ridge only to find 3 climbers just roping up. We first saw the climbers between the Yale and Damnation gullies and thought they were hikers just scrambling around the ravine floor. But they were climbers who had scrambled up the wrong way. So Sean, Tom and I waited behind them for 45 minutes before Sean could lead our climb. And we would be waiting to start our turn at each pitch thereafter. Overall, we waited almost 2 hours.

What do you do when waiting your turn to climb?

Admire the ravine views......

.....and build a cairn!

Finally, our turn!

Sean leading up P1

Tom and I coming up P1

Sean leading up the start of P2

It started to get windy and clouds came in.

Clouds covering the Pinnacle and Central Buttresses

Sean almost at the belay station for P3

North Gully

The ravine from the belay station of P3

Me coming up P3

Tom coming up P3

At our belay station for P4
......waiting our turn

Sean on the Diving Board of P4

Tom on the Diving Board of P4

...and me on the Diving Board of P4

Me coming up P4

End of our roped climb

4 pitches completed!

But despite our wait for every pitch, we had a wonderful climb up the Henderson Ridge. Our entire climb went smoothly except for both my quads and left arm cramping up as I started up the 2^nd pitch. Even after taking in more food, water, electrolytes and Tylenol, my quads still cramped up and stayed that way until we got back to my truck. So many moments of pushing past the pain.

As we climbed, we kept looking back at the 3 teams on the Northeast Ridge of the Pinnacle. We watched as the leader of the first team down-climbed the 3^rd pitch. We watched the third team make their way up the Allis Chimney. While our entire day of climbing was in the sun, by 12 noon the Pinnacle Buttress was no longer in the sun. And wind and low clouds swept in and covered the Pinnacle for a few moments. We watched as the first team made their way across the Fairy Tale Traverse, with the second team skipping the Fairy Tale Traverse. And finally, we watched the leader of the 3^rd team make his way across the Fairy Tale Traverse as we topped out on our 4^th and last pitch. We made the right decision ….it was a Henderson Ridge climbing day!

We packed our ropes and gear away. But even after 4 roped pitches, we still had a ways to go, to get to the top. So to finish off, we carefully scrambled up the North Gully which is full of loose rock, wet spots, bushy terrain and thick moss. 

Looking down at "The Diving Board" 
as we made our way up the North Gully

Wildcats Ski

The scramble took us onto the Nelson Crag Tableland and trail. 

Making my way to the Nelson Crag Tableland

We made our way to the Nelson Crag summit - Bagged!

Then back to my truck and the scenic ride down the auto road.

Yes! A great day for climbing! Although there was only a brief moment of cloudiness and wind,we had warm temps and sunny skies for hiking and climbing. There were 6 climbers on the Northeast Ridge of Pinnacle route and 6 climbers on the Henderson Ridge route. I counted 42 hikers on the trail making their way up the fan and the headwall. I stopped counting when we started our climb up the ridge. And as far as the cramps in both my quads and upper left arm....as soon as we got into my truck, they were gone!

References:

Mountain Project: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/henderson-ridge/106410481

Rock Climbs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire by Ed Webster.

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