2014 Presidential Range Traverse – Multi-day Hike
Dedicated to Sue Barber!
AMAZING 3 days - 9 summits - 21 miles – 8,800ft elevation
gain!
Mt. Madison #30, Mt. Adams #31 and Mt. Washington #32 for
me. Washington #41 for Tim!!! My first time on Clay. Third time on
Jefferson. Second time on Monroe, Franklin, Eisenhower and Pierce!
Started traverse 3 days after my 55th birthday!!!
A year ago Sue asked me if I would be interested in hiking the Presidential Range Traverse with her. I hemmed and hawed a bit but ended saying yes! And I’m sure glad I did.
Started traverse 3 days after my 55th birthday!!!
A year ago Sue asked me if I would be interested in hiking the Presidential Range Traverse with her. I hemmed and hawed a bit but ended saying yes! And I’m sure glad I did.
Fast forward to May 2014. Sue and I agreed on a 3 days/2
night-traverse. She also invited Tim along on the traverse. Reservations were
made at the Madison Springs and Lake Of The Clouds huts. I also set up
reservations for the shuttle to take us from the AMC Highland Center to the
Appalachia Trail on Route 2, the start of our 3-day trek. Unfortunately, 3
weeks before our traverse, Sue had to back out due to illness. Tim and I
decided to go ahead with the traverse.
The Presidential Range Traverse in the White Mountains of
New Hampshire is one of the most coveted hikes in the Northeast. Most of the
hike is above treeline making for exposure to every sort of weather. The
traverse covers all the summits named after USA presidents: Madison, Adams,
Jefferson, Washington, Monroe, Eisenhower and Pierce. It passes over the
highest peak in the Northeast. As well as the second, third, fourth and fifth
highest. The traverse can be done in a day. This blog covers our traverse done
as a multi-day, north to south hike.
Day 1
Mt. Madison (5,366ft) – Madison Spring Hut (4,825ft)
Trails: Valley Way, Osgood
On the day of our traverse, Tim and I met up at the AMC
Highland center. Since we weren’t allowed to park at the center overnight, we
parked in the Crawford Path trailhead and walked back the short distance to the
center to catch our shuttle. At the Appalachia Trailhead, we started up the
Valley Way trail. Two words for this day……hot and muggy! We took frequent
breaks but I didn’t get enough to eat, and as a result, my left lower quad
cramped up. With just 100 yards to the hut, I breathed deeply with every
painful step. Eventually, the cramps subsided. But I wasn’t worried about the
cramps. What worried me about this hike in hot muggy weather was my asthma. These
type of temps/conditions can trigger an asthma attack and I was glad that I could breathe
freely in this weather. So long as I maintained an even pace, I was fine. We
checked-in and were put in the Adams Bunkroom (22-bunks). I quickly ate a bowl
of soup/crackers and then Tim and I were off to bag the Madison summit.
Mt. Madison summit - Tim & I - my #30!
Yes, I lugged my 3lb DSLR up & down for 3 days! Ugh!
Tim photographing another peakbagger
From the Madison summit
Also celebrating Madison! Frank for #41 and his buddy Gerry
It
was very windy with some gusts up to 40mph! We decided not to bag Adams and a
good thing too. 10 minutes after getting back to the hut, it started to
downpour! This and high winds continued throughout the night. Sunday dinner
throughout the AMC hut system was Pasta. Stuffed shells with soup, garden salad
and dessert. I had the lactose-free dinner of pasta noodles and sauce.
Interestingly, no meat for this meal! :( The next morning breakfast of coffee, oatmeal,
scrambled eggs and bacon was served at 7am.
Madison Springs Hut
Madison Springs Hut
Log-in book
Madison Spring Hut Passport stamped!
Menu board
My bunk for the night!
Every stitch of space is used to dry wet gear
Day 2
Mt. Adams (5,774ft), Mt. Jefferson (5,712ft), Mt. Clay (5,533ft) & Mt.
Washington (6,288ft) - Lakes Of The Clouds Hut (5,012ft)
Trails: Gulfside, Lowe’s Path, Clay Loop, Crawford Path
From the Madison Springs hut we took the Gulfside Trail.
I had found a blog that described that small section of the Gulfside trail between
the Airline trail and Thunderstorm Junction as “almost smooth as a sidewalk.” And
sure enough, there is a patch of trail that is, well, almost smooth as a
sidewalk! Tim and I were so glad we took this trail instead of the Airline
trail directly over the Mt. John Quincy Adams summit and then onto the summit
of Mt. Adams! The stones in this section are indeed leveled making this section
very easy going all the way! In no time Tim and I were at the Thunderstorm
Junction. From here we hiked up the easy 0.3 mile to the Adams summit. Just how easy is that section, you ask? Well, Tim and I were at the Airline/Gulfside junction and there were 6 others....they decided to take Airline up over the smaller peak and then onto Adams. Tim and I took that "almost smooth as sidewalk" section and we were at the Adams summit before that group of 6! How's that for easy huh?!?!?
Goodbye Madison!
King Ravine from the Gulfside Trail
Thunderstorm Junction
Thunderstorm Junction
Snuggling up to the Mt. Adams summit marker - #31!
Tim at Mt. Adams summit
Onwards to Mt. Jefferson! That little section of the
trail from the Edmund Col up to the Gulfside Trail junction was so fun. Easy-peasy
rock scrambling with great views of the Jefferson Ravine! We had a quick lunch at the large cairn just below
the Mt. Jefferson summit. And since Mt. Clay didn’t count, we just “walked-thru”
the summit and continued onto Washington.
Bouldering, sort of, LOL!
Mt. Jefferson summit for the 3rd time
Spaulding Lake
Last push to Mt. Washington summit
For me, that last mile to the Washington summit was the
hardest! My quads weren’t cramping and I had no asthma flare-ups. But I was so
sleepy and it was work to maintain an even pace. Tim helped by telling me to just focus on one
cairn at a time. I did and no time, we were at the summit! As expected, the
summit sign had lines – two lines, actually! We got into the “hiker line” and
there were some folks that let us go ahead of them to take our photos.
Mt. Washington summit
My #32 & Tim's #41!
Yellow Cog Train in the background
Yup!
After our summit photos we had a snack and visited the
gift shop before heading down to the Lakes Of The Clouds hut. On the descent to
the hut it was getting really chilly. We arrived at Lakes Of The Clouds hut
just as the clouds were settling over the lakes. We checked in and set up our
bunks and then the downpour began! It cooled things off a bit and we settled in
for what I think was THE BEST dinner EVER! White Rice, Ginger Chicken, sour
soup & bread, garden salad and double chocolate fudge brownies. I had the
lactose-free Peaches & cinnamon for dessert. I couldn’t finish my dinner so I made a sandwich with the bread and chicken I
had left over. Didn’t want it to go to waste plus this would be great for lunch
the following day since the huts don’t provide any lunch or sandwiches!
From the Mt. Washington summit to the Lakes Of The Clouds hut
Lakes Of The Clouds sign
Lakes Of The Clouds sign
Lakes Of The Clouds
Sunset at Lakes Of The Clouds (2)
Lakes Of The Clouds Hut Passport stamped!
Lakes Of The Clouds hut
Day 3
Mt. Monroe (5,372ft), Mt. Franklin (5,001ft), Mt. Eisenhower
(4,780ft), Mt. Pierce (4,310ft)
Trails: Mt. Monroe Loop, Franklin Loop, Mt. Eisenhower
Loop, Crawford Path
I got up early, at 4:30am, and couldn’t go back to sleep. In
the dining room there were 4 thru-hikers still asleep in their bags. They had
come in after the 9:30 lights out/quiet time. One of the croo members were
already up and in the kitchen prepping for breakfast. I dressed in my new “High
Huts” fleece pullover and my ice climbing fleece beanie and took my DSLR and
iPhone outside. The weather was overcast and the outside air chilly. But it
felt good to sit in the silence. Slowly the others in the hut woke and I
quickly grabbed a cup of hot coffee and snapped more photos. Breakfast was hardy oatmeal, scrambled eggs
and bacon.
Good Morning Mt. Washington!
Mt. Washington Hotel
6:30am wake-up serenade performed
every morning by the the hut croo!
Day 3 would be the only day with ‘bad weather.’ Unlike
the 2 days before, it was overcast much of the way. And since Tim and I had
already bagged the southern peaks, we decided that we would “walk-thru” the
southern summits. At the Monroe summit we quickly located the pin and tapped it
with our toes and descended onto Franklin for our summit walk-thru. The same
for Eisenhower and Pierce. I couldn't believe how socked in those two peaks
were. Such a disappointment since I had carried my 3-pound DSLR along in hopes
of getting photos of the southern Presidentials. I had originally planned to go
onto the Mizpah Springs Hut to get my AMC Passport stamped. But I was feeling
tired and decided I could save it for a solo hike on another day. So at the
Pierce summit we tapped the cairn and headed back down to the trailhead. We
lunched in the middle of the trail on our sandwiches made from dinner we had
the night before. It was delicious and hit the spot. I’m so glad I listened to
Tim when he told me to use all the chicken! ;) At the Gibbs Falls we stopped
for a few so that I could wet my bandana and dip my hands into the ice cold
water. It was such a welcomed relief since the last part of the trail was annoyingly
hot and muggy.
Mt. Monroe from Lake Of The Clouds hut
Mt. Franklin
Mt. Eisenhower
British Soldiers Lichen
Cairn
Cotton Sedge
Gibbs Falls
This traverse was more than just hiking 21 miles and
bagging peaks. For me it was about the exhilaration of being in the mountains for several days. Enjoying the gorgeous landscape
above treeline. And experiencing all the joys and challenges that the mountains have to offer. I started somewhat anxious about the traverse but was quickly calmed
when I looked at it as 3 days of hiking. This traverse was also a learning
experience for me. The fact that I have EIA (Exercise Induced Asthma) did make
for some extra bit of thought in my planning, but it didn't worry me at all. As long as I kept a pace that I was I comfortable with, hydrated well and used my
inhaler as needed, this would not be a handicap that would cut short my
traverse. Except for a scratch on Tim’s shin, we were fortunate that we
remained safe during our entire traverse. And finally, this traverse was about
being thankful. Thankful that God has given me the opportunity to experience every
mountain, in His presence.
The views and the exposure above treeline are truly
amazing – Tim and I were also fortunate to have such good hiking weather! And we weren't the only ones hiking a traverse. We met many hikers (solos & groups,
men & women of all ages) on the very same journey, some traveling in the opposite
direction.
The Presidential Range….so beautiful yet so unforgiving –
but by far, my favorite hike!
There were 3 sections of this traverse that was the
hardest for me:
1) Day 1 the last 100 yards to the Madison Springs hut
when I got a cramp in my left quad;
2) Day 2 the last mile to the Washington summit;
3) Day 3 the last mile of traverse when my backpack felt
its heaviest.
** I went a long time not realizing I have asthma and my favorite activities were limited and not fun because I wasn't aware of the symptoms of EIA. I even blamed myself for not being fit enough. Check out this article from the American Academy of Allergy Asthmas & Immunology and help spread the word!
** I went a long time not realizing I have asthma and my favorite activities were limited and not fun because I wasn't aware of the symptoms of EIA. I even blamed myself for not being fit enough. Check out this article from the American Academy of Allergy Asthmas & Immunology and help spread the word!
Links:
AMC Hiker Shuttle Map & Schedule
Marc Chauvin Presidential Traverse Escape Route Plan
http://www.chauvinguides.com/PresiTraverse/presiescapeguide.htm
American Academy of Allergy Asthmas & Immunology
http://www.aaaai.org
American Academy of Allergy Asthmas & Immunology
http://www.aaaai.org
