Crack Climbing & Sport Leading Lesson #10

Great day of sport leading and crack climbing lessons! Started off with warming up on the stationary bike and then onto stretches. I even got instructions on using a climbing Hangboard (fingerboard) which I'll be adding to my climbing workout! I'll continue yoga, HIIT training on the treadmill, and weight lifting exercises. 

During my crack climbing lesson I got to the half-way point of the overhanging section. And I’m really enjoying the “climbing” aspect of sport leading, but wished I was a lot faster at route reading. Sometimes I don’t get how to use certain holds and it takes a while for me to visualize my movement over them. Tino says it’ll come with time and to keep onsighting more. ❤️

Trestle Slab (WI3) - Ice Climbing

Trestle Slab (WI3)
Frankenstein Cliffs
Crawford Notch, NH

Hello 2019! 
My first ice climbing outing of the season/year - and it did not disappoint! Mellow day of ice climbing at Frankenstein Cliffs in Crawford Notch, NH. Nuno and I took a late start and climbed the Trestle Slab (WI3). I lead up to the tree at the top of the middle of the slab where there are a couple of cordelettes with rap rings, then brought Nuno up. It was very warm especially with one too many layers on. We had the slab all to ourselves and it was a super chill day of climbing! And thanks Nuno for your help and support for my "Turning 60 and Climbing About It" project!

Golf Summerlin - Las Vegas, NV

At the 18th tee box of Eagle Crest Golf Course

Located just west of the Las Vegas strip and nestled against the Spring Mountain Range is Golf Summerlin! We love golfing the Golf Summerlin courses; Highland Falls, Palm Valley and Eagle Crest. All 3 courses are located in Sun City Summerlin. 

Pano from 14th tee (3,070 ft) Highland Falls Golf Course

Palm Valley Golf Club

Palm Valley Golf Club

Pano from 4th tee Eagle Crest Golf Club

Eagle Crest Golf Club

Tree stump golfer Eagle Crest Golf Club

Dog Wall - Rock Climbing

Peanut gallery on the upper trail from the 1st pullout parking lot

Spent the morning at the Dog Wall crag in Red Rock Canyon. Yup, the rock was dry enough! The climbs here were overhanging and I only attempted one climb, Pleasure Dog (5.10) but quit when I couldn't get to a hold (too reachy for me). After that I just sat out and belayed. It was amazing to watch Linda and Tim leading the overhanging routes! And it was good to get out - I got to spend time with my climbing buddy who was visiting from Colorado for the weekend! 

Liz leads Catwalk

Trad routes on the left of the Dog Wall
Unknown Dihedral, Doggy Style and Wok The Dog

You can spot a climber on The Slab

Tammy on Pleasure Dog

Linda leading Cujo

Unknown Dihedral - Trad

The Gun Club - Rock Climbing

Limestone Tingle: numbness in fingers and hands from climbing sharp limestone

Did some cragging at The Gun Club. Located in the La Madre range, it's a small canyon with a short and easy approach. But don't go letting this canyon fool ya! Its limestone walls may be short, but da buggah is super, super sharp! It was fun, very warm, and practically all the Vegas climbers were out there. This nicely bolted sport crag is a good alternative while waiting for the sandstone at Red Rock Canyon to dry out. We climbed in the section with climbs in the 5.6 to 5.10 range. I got an easy lead in on Mini-Gun (5.6), and TR'd the rest of the day. Enjoy a few photos taken of my day climbing the Right (North) Wall of The Gun Club!

On the easy approach to the right wall

Several Barrel Cacti on the wall

Lotsa folks are out enjoying the warm temps and dry rock!

(even Sock Monkey!)

The Left (South) Wall as seen from the Right Wall

Looking up the canyon

TPC Summerlin Golf

Ronnie and I got a chance to play a round of golf with my cousins at the TPC Summerlin in Las Vegas, Nevada. Great temps, fast greens and fantastic company! 

After-golf lunch at Cinnamon's Vegas

Death Valley National Park, California 2018

Easy walks/hikes at the Death Valley National Park. 

Harmony Borax Works, Salt Creek, and Badwater Basin.

Calico Hills 2 - Walk

Photos of my walk through Calico Hills 2 of Red Rock Canyon until the rain started!

Crack Climbing & Sport Leading Instruction #9

This month marks one year that I started on my journey of learning to crack climb. While vacationing in Joshua Tree National Park a year ago, I hired Seth Peitit of Mojave Guides for two days to teach me to crack climb. Not only do I love crack climbing, but I enjoy the process of learning the techniques of crack climbing. Since returning from Joshua Tree NP, I wanted to continue my crack climbing lessons. So every month I drive 70 miles north to Salt Pump Climbing Company in Scarborough, Maine for my lesson with Tino. Tino, the head routesetter, is a "movement guru" and I'm fortunate to take lessons from him. And today I had another super day of lessons with Tino! 

Several months ago I added sport leading to my crack climbing lessons. I find my lessons on sport leading to be really helpful and enjoyable to learn! The lessons give me an understanding and help me get accustomed to the technique necessary in the movement of sport climbing. It includes leading in the 5.6 to 5.8 range and the technique training I come away with has been most invaluable! 

I got my indoor lead cert from a New Hampshire climbing gym several years ago. In order to do so, I had to demonstrate lead and lead belay on a 5.9 route. I lead up to a 5.10 but most times I felt like I was thrashing my way up a route and didn't see any point in continuing. Discouraged, I stopped climbing indoors for a while and that caused me to lose my mindset and an overall interest in sport leading. Learning climbing techniques with Tino has renewed my interest in sport leading/climbing. 

For the crack climbing portion of my lesson, I worked on using and alternating tension in my body in order to climb through the pain and pressure. It was nearing the end of my lesson and I was tired, but super stoked to get up part ways of the overhanging section of the crack! On my next lesson, I'll push through the pain and pressure to climb through that overhanging section and to the top! The one factor that I keep in mind in all my lessons is that technique is uber important in crack climbing as in another other style of climbing. This is what keeps my interest piqued. 

At the end of my lessons, Tino gave me exercises to do to increase my mobility and strength. He also suggested that I keep a climbing journal. So I downloaded the Journey Diary and Journal App, and use that to list all my "light bulb" moments and lesson details to reflect back on. 

Beginner's Easy Variation - Multi Pitch Rock Climbing

Belaying Nuno up P2 

Congratulations Nancy! It was Nancy's first time on a multi pitch rock climb, and it was a lot of fun to be included on her special day! It was also gratifying to help her experience her first multi pitch rock climb. We climbed Beginner's Easy Variation on Whitehorse Ledge. After we got to the P2 belay at the tree, it started to snow light flurries - and then it just colder! In the middle of P2 I ran into a bit of trouble. 15 feet above my last piece of protection the rope wouldn't budge - it was stuck and I couldn't climb any further. Nuno had slack on his end and said it looked like the ropes were stuck around the corner. I had no choice but to downclimb to my last piece of protection. Then Nuno lowered me to the corner where I removed the pro, unstuck the ropes and flipped them onto the top of the corner. It was fine from then on. But it just kept colder so we bailed after completing P3. We used my 70m double ropes and rapped down in 2. Thanks Nuno for the lead belays and for including me. We'll be back to finish up the route when the temps are warmer.

Belaying Nancy up P1

Belaying Nancy up P2

Nuno at the tree belay

Nancy making her way up P3

Nancy rappelling