North End Pillars Cathedral Ledge - Ice Climbing

It was Brandie's first time on ice this season and her first time ice climbing at Cathedral Ledge. We parked at the intersection of Cathedral Ledge and Sanctuary Roads and walked in. I was going to lead Brandie up the North End Slab but there were two guides with their clients. So instead, I set up a top rope anchor and we did laps on the North End Pillars. It was super windy on the drive up to North Conway, but being well-sheltered, the North End was free of wind. It was also quite warm, perfect! A mellow, relaxing day for getting in some ice climbing laps.  Thanks, Brandie for your help and support for my "Turning 60 and Climbing About It" project! ❤️ 

North End Pillars

From the top of North End Pillars

Brandie left - climbing guide in red jacket

The trail leading up to Thresher

Trail up to North End Slab

Leprechaun's Lement (WI2-3) - Ice Climbing

Leprechaun's Lement (WI2-3)
Kinsman Notch, NH

Ice climbed at Kinsman Notch today. Only our group of 5 and another group of 5 climbing here today and after leading Leprechaun's Lement, I know why - super.hard.ice. It took me several extra swings and kicks to get a good purchase, and I had difficulty removing my tools from the ice. Gotta admit it was work and a lot harder to lead than I expected. But it was still a stellar day to be outdoors and climbing. It was good to finally meet up and climb with Catherine, Kristen, and Steve! And thanks Jeni for your help and support for my "Turning 60 and Climbing About It" project! ❤️ 

1 lead and 3 top ropes down today....47 more pitches to go! 

Vermont Weekend - Climbing & Skiing

ENT Gully Pitch 1

Great weekend in Vermont! Jackie and I made the 1.8 mile uphill hike in from the south (Stowe) end of Smuggler's Notch. Then solo climbed up the steep approach...breaking trail to the base of the climb. But due to recent sub-zero temps, the ice at ENT Gully was bullet hard and super brittle - so we bailed on the much anticipated multi pitch climb. We plan on coming back for this climb. And next time I won't be wearing as many layers! Dang, I wore waaay too many layers on this trip - base layers, mid layers and thick insulated pants and jacket - all made for a very uncomfortable, too warm, uphill hike!

ENT Gully can be reached by hiking to the top of the notch on route 108 from either the south end in Stowe, or the north end in Jeffersonville. There is an outhouse (brown building with several toilets/urinals) and coming from the south end we hiked past this building on our left. Just beyond it and on our left, we headed up to the base of ENT Gully. You can see the ENT Gully area from the road. Not surprised that there weren't a lot of climbers out today, since the ice was so hard. But there were many hikers, snowboarders, skiers and dogs too...lots of folks out hiking and skiing with their dogs. On our way out, there were several groups of AVI training courses.

The next day I tried out my new-to-me skis and ski boots at Jay Peak Resort. My skis just got a stone grind tune up and they're super slick, but I love them. It snowed the day before so there was plenty of soft snow! Usually the trails at Jay Peak are dead on Super Bowl Sundays, but since it snowed the day before, everyone wanted to get out and the trails were busy. Jackie and Noah are volunteers on the Ski Patrol and at lunch we met up for a delicious bowl of hot Ramen noodles from Miso Hungry Tramside! 

At the base of ENT Gully

Jackie breaking trail

View of the notch from the base of ENT Gully

Me downclimbing

AVI courses 

Gorgeous Smuggs Ice Routes!

Uphill hike along Route 108

Town line of Cambridge and Stowe

Jay Peak (Stateside) Pano

Miso Hungry Ramen lunch

Jay Peak (Tramside)

Moss Slab Wall, Stonehouse Pond - Ice Climbing

Swing those ice tools!

Met up with Adam for some laps at the Moss Slab in Stonehouse Pond. Also met some new climbing friends, Kyle and Autumn - thanks for letting us use your excess anchor rope! Today's temps were cold and with the recent rain, the ice was soft and there was running water in a couple of spots. But still some good climbing laps to be had! With good chilly weather coming, the ice here should set up real nicely for the coming weekend! And thanks Adam for your help and support for my "Turning 60 and Climbing About It" project!

Kick those feet in!

Autumn's 2nd time on ice, swinging and kicking it!

Adam

Overlooking Stonehouse Pond from the top of the Main Cliff

Moss Slab Wall, Stonehouse Pond - Ice Climbing

More Stonehouse Pond fun! Warmer temps and another late start make perfect conditions for ice climbing laps. Nuno brought his binoculars and we took a look at the Flywalk route (WI3+, PG13), before heading out to the Moss Slab Wall. I was able to get in 6 laps on 3 different climbs. I also brought some of my ice screws so Nuno could practice placing them. Super fun swinging and kicking again! Really love Stonehouse Pond and am so glad to be back climbing here again. The new trails through the woods and parking lot make the approach super easy and is a remarkable improvement! And thanks Nuno for your help and support for my "Turning 60 and Climbing About It" project! Some photos taken of our day ice climbing at the Moss Slab Wall. 

Looking at Flywalk (WI3+, PG13) from across the pond

Todd leading the left side

Stonehouse Pond - Ice Climbing

Moss Slab Wall

Can't believe its been 5 years since I last ice climbed here! Joined Phil for some cragging at Stonehouse Pond in Barrington, NH. The place has changed but for the better! Phil pointed out that several new trails were put in. Besides reducing impact, these trails keep hikers and climbers off of the private properties of the surrounding residents. The parking is at the new Kiosk at the second pullout on the left. The approach from the parking lot starts through a gate and the hike is a scenic walk through the woods, taking you along the edge of the pond. There are trail markers on some of the trees and the elevation gain is mellow. Today's temps were in the teen's and as the day wore on, the rope iced up. But it was a good day for swinging and kicking laps and getting outdoors. And thanks Phil for your help and support for my "Turning 60 and Climbing About It" project! Enjoy a few photos taken of our day. 

Along the trail

Phil taking some practice swings and kicks

RR Cut Keene - Ice Climbing

Usually, I would have been out on the ice climbing by this time of the season. But this winter season I've been busy traveling and yesterday finally got out onto some ice. It felt good! I joined the AMC-NH Mountaineering group today for some top rope climbing. It also felt good to get back to "The Cut" and reconnect with old friends as well as make new ones. Ice conditions were perfect! Enjoy some photos of our day.

Top row left to right: Jenifer, Jennifer
Bottom row left to right: Darrell, Finn

Ben Greene

Left: Tom Sintros
Right: George Adams on Solo

With Tom Sintros

With Jen

What's ice climbing without Hawaiian chocolate?

Leprechaun's Lement (WI2-3) - Ice Climbing

Pano photo left to right: LL gully, LL slab. Hanging By A Moment

Leprechaun's Lement (WI2-3)
Kinsman Notch, North Woodstock, NH

The last of this season ice climbing for me....so I was glad I got to get in one lead. Like the past weekend at Arethusa Falls and weekend before that at Waterfall, we had the ice all to ourselves today. Overcast skies were sure promising and when we got to the base of Leprechaun's Lement, we were glad it was in the shade. For the most part, the slab was clear of snow. (below the base of LL lay the snow that had slid of the LL slab). 

John led the Leprechaun's Lement Gully, then we rapped down into the vertical section of the slab where we did a couple of laps. We also did a couple of laps on the Hanging By A Moment. And finally, in the late afternoon, I led the Leprechaun's Lement Slab. I led the center since I had only led the left hand side of the slab. The ice on the first half of the route was really still good. But by that time the clouds lifted and the sun had shown through baking the top half of the route. And after the half way point, the ice was just pure shitty. So I only placed pro up to the half way point and ran it out to the tree anchor. I could've put one more piece of pro in if I just scraped the shitty ice off of the top layer. But the grade was easy, I felt good, calm and not pumped and made sure all my sticks and feet were solid. Enjoy some photos taken of our day at Kinsman Notch.

Arethusa Falls (WI3-4) - Ice Climbing

Pano photo of Arethusa Falls

Arethusa Falls (WI3-4)
Crawford Notch, NH

Beautiful bluebird day for some spring ice climbing! John and I checked out Walk In The Forest and it wasn't looking good. Most of it was in full sun and looking really baked (scary). I suggested we check out Arethusa Falls so we back-tracked along the railroad tracks and headed up the Arethusa Falls Trail. The 1.5 mile trail was well-packed and there were some hikers already coming down. They confirmed solid ice and no flowing water like John and Phil had encountered couple weeks prior. Like Waterfall (WI3) the week before, we had the falls all to ourselves. But there were many photographers, hikers and their dogs who came to the falls while we were climbing. John did a fantastic job leading up the left-center. At the start the ice was solid. But at the middle there was a lot of snow and about 3/4 way the ice was pretty bad, but under it was solid. The flowing water in the center definitely caught my attention. At the top and off to the right, is a tree with a large red webbing  around it. John set up anchor and we rapped down from here. 

Great job sending Arethusa Falls John and thanks for another mellow day of ice climbing!

Waterfall (WI3) - Ice Climbing

Waterfall (WI3)
Frankenstein Cliffs, Crawford Notch, NH

Great conditions, mild temps, no wind makes for a great climbing the last day of winter! John and I climbed the Waterfall route - had this area all to ourselves. Mellow day of climbing for sure!

Leprechaun's Lement Gully (WI2) - Ice Climbing

Leprechaun's Lement Gully (WI2)

Thanks for the belay, Ken!

Usually when I shut off my truck engine, the headlamps automatically turn off. But not today. Had to make a trip back down to the parking lot to turn them off. If you ice climb at Kinsman Notch, you know that very steep approach well. Great warmup hiking the approach twice, fer sure. But would have rather spent the warmup actually climbing. But my truck - she started right up. ;)

Met Ken and Dominique for some mellow climbing at Kinsman Notch. Ken thought the ice might be thin from the thaw, but the conditions were really good!  I thought it would be crowded but we had the climbs all to ourselves. Counting the three of us, plus a solo climber, two parties of 2, and a guided group, there were 18 total at the crag today. At one point we even left our rope hanging on the Leprechaun's Lement route and went to check out The Beast. Enjoy a few photos taken of our day.

Dominique on Leprechaun's Lement (left) and Hanging By A Moment (right).

Ken on Hanging By A Moment

This solo climber made his way up Hanging By A Moment. He climbed up to the trees, then rapped down. Then climbed back up to the trees on a solo belay.

Met Sharon and Don. Sharon is a new ice leader too! 
Look at her go! Yay Sharon!

We checked out The Beast - looking good!

From the base of The Beast

Leprechaun's Lement

Selfie