Sunday, September 17, 2017

Bombardment to Upper Refuse - Multi Pitch Rock Climb



Shaka! from P2 Upper Refuse

Bombardment (5.8)
Trad, 2 pitches, 160 feet
Lower Left Wall/Ventilator Slabs
Cathedral Ledge, North Conway, NH

Upper Refuse (5.5)
Trad, 3 pitches, 200 feet
Barber Wall
Cathedral Ledge, North Conway, NH







Bombardment (5.8)
Looking up P1. That headwall crack at the start of the first pitch isn't the start for me, so I scrambled up the left side onto the first ledge. That faint Dike is a super fun. Sean lead (both pitches) and if he fell from the runout Dike, would most likely be over the ledge. A fall from a second would pendulum. Glad I love Whitehorse run outs. This was run out for sure, but challenging in a fun kind of way. 










Looking up P2. Sean did an fantastic job of leading P2! It was scary fun, especially a small section where the holds were shiny and slippery. I got to practice jamming my feet in that arching crack....and it didn't even hurt (thank you Scarpa Techno X! )
















Upper Refuse(5.5)
While on UR, Sean and I watched Scott lead Black Crack (5.10b) and Sarah Garlick follow. It was super fun to watch them shove their left arm and leg into the off-width crack as they made their way up the crack. 



This photo of Sarah Garlick climbing Black Crack (5.10b)
was featured on the frontpage of NEClimbs.com 
And to think, I told Sean that we should skip climbing Upper Refuse. 
Glad he convinced me otherwise or else I'd never have gotten the photos. 



A party of 4 climbers came up behind us at the base. While we were waiting for the second climber of the party in front of us to come up, the lead climber of the party of 4 came up just to below us at the belay station. I'm glad Sean told the lead climber that I was a new lead. His belayer on the ground was yelling up to him to go up past us, no doubt to the tree. But I'm glad he didn't and stayed out of my way as well as off the tree for the belay anchor. He waited until I was up at the tree anchor and then came up and built a gear anchor in the corner of the ledge. I brought Sean up P2 and then we swapped leads and Sean took P3. 


Looking down P1


At the belay station of P2 waiting.


Love my new Scarpa Techno X!


Bringing Sean up P2

Overall, it was so fun climbing at Cathedral Ledge. Big crowd at UR so make sure you get there early enough to get in line - typical UR Sunday! We only came in one vehicle so after topping out and checking out the Lookout, we walked down the road to the base of the ledge. 

Lookout at the top of Cathedral Ledge, 
climbers on the route Camber 5.11b